1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Hesitation on throttle

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by Justin, Mar 17, 2003.

  1. Justin

    Justin Active Member

    65 riv , 401 , edelbrock carb.

    I changed the acceleration pump jets to a smaller diameter. and changed the metering rods and primary jets to the next smaller size than stock (edelbrock sent me the pieces).

    Now if the throttle is at idle and you give it gas (just enought to take off from a light guick - not racing) it hesitates badly then jumps off the line. same thing for up til 20 mph then you can stomp it and it runs fine.


    I checked the new acelleration pump jets and the seem to be squirting plenty. when the car is off.

    Did this sound like an accelerate pump or smaller jets?
    How do I know if I leaned it out too much?

    I could have screwed some of the linkage up when I took it apart.
     
  2. JR

    JR Member

    Sounds like a problem with your off-idle circuit.

    It's been a long time since I studied carb theory and I don't have any experience with Edelbrock's improved AFB. What cfm carb and size primary and secondary venturi's you running?

    JR
     
  3. Justin

    Justin Active Member

    So I screwed something up when I took the top off to change the primary jets and accelerate pump jets?

    Its a 600 but I dont know the size of the jets. It is supposely a size less than stock.
     
  4. 66_Buick_KId

    66_Buick_KId Well-Known Member

    Sounds to me like you have a lean condition, (not enough fuel), maybe try puttin the old accelerater squirters back in, what is the reason that you took the old ones out? :Do No:
     
  5. Justin

    Justin Active Member

    I messed with the accelerator jets and primary jets because it was getting bad mileage (10) and exhaust smelled rich.
    When I looked at the acclerator pump, it seemed to squirt way too much gas in (not very strong but just a large stream).


    I didnt think a lean condition would make it surge only at idle. above 20 mph it runs fine.
     
  6. 66_Buick_KId

    66_Buick_KId Well-Known Member

    You have a good point there.....usually things act lean all the way through. I guess what i was thinking is that it's not gettin enough gas just off the go.....maybe i'm not making sense....that wouldn't be anything new...lol :laugh: :Dou:
     
  7. JohnK

    JohnK Gas Guzzling Infidel

    My 64 with a 425 and a Carter 9635 (625 cfm) gets 13-16 mpg, so you've got something going on. I'd check two things: 1) Vacuum, 2) Spark plug color. Almost sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere, can be P/B and A/C as well as gaskets. Plug color will tell you if you're too far rich/lean. Did you check that the primary metering rods are free to move against the springs? They're under the little covers on the air horn assy. I take them out and put them back in separately when I take my airhorn off, so they don't get bent tips.
     
  8. Justin

    Justin Active Member

    I just changed the plugs so I will check in a couple of tanks.

    I did check that the rods are moving freely.

    I will check for a vacuum leak. I will block off all the vacuum lines and see if it helps.

    My secondaries are completely closed . Isnt that wrong? I thought they were closed until I stomped on them. or they would suck gas thru the secondary jets.
     
  9. JohnK

    JohnK Gas Guzzling Infidel

    There should be some sort of color on them now, just pull a couple and have a look.
    Secondaries have an air valve right under the venturi assemblies. It's normally closed by counterweight action, when the engine is revving enough to use the airflow, that air valve will start to open.
     
  10. Brian

    Brian Displaced VA Hillbilly

    You need to put the original accelerator pump jets back in, but keep the smaller main jets you put in. It just isn't getting enough fuel when you push down on the accelerator. Accelerator pump is only a very small contributor to your fuel mileage. The main jets being too large is why you were getting poor fuel mileage.
     
  11. Justin

    Justin Active Member

    Well now when I got ready to change out the jets, it stopped "stumbling". it runs fine now. I do worry about it being too lean. I dont want to burn up my exhaust valves.
     

Share This Page