I just changed my rear seal and this is how I suggest you do it. It only took 1 day to get the motor out of the car and get the oil pan off and the rear main cap off. Another day to get it back together and back in the car. Heres how I did it. With the motor out 1. remove the oil pan 2. clean the oil off the botom rear of the block 3. find the small pins that are wedged into small rubber blocks on each side of the rear cap on the oil pan mounting surface. revove the pins with needle nose pliers then dig out the rubber with a thin screwdriver 4. remove one bolt form the flywheel and spray a little paint in the threads so you can match it back up later now remove the rest of the bolts 5.remove the 2 bolts holding the rear main onto the block 6. using an old flathead and a hammed LIGHTLY tap down on the caps alternating from on side of the crank to the other till it comes out 7. inspect the old seal, there should be some rope in the skinny groove in the cap 8. if your going to use a neoprene seal then you just need to remove the old rope. The part in the cap is no problem but you'll need a peice of wire bent to a curve to push ou the rope thats up between the block and the crank. It may take some time to get it out but it helps to rotate the motor in the direction you are trying to get the rope out 9. With all the rope removed now you need to cut small peices of scotchbright pads to feed up through were the old rope was to clean it. Use the wire you used before to feed it through. Repeat till the pads come out the other side of the crank clean 10. remove the neoprene seal from the package and aply a thin coat of rtv to the back side of the seal MAKE SURE THE SEAL IS INSTALLED WITH THE LIP FACING INSIDE THE MOTOR. (NOTE: It is a good idea to staggar or offset the ends of the seal with the junction between the cap and block because this is a prone spot for leakage) slide one half of the seal up into the grove between the crank and the block untill there is about 2 inches hangin out. Now you take the other half of the seal and slid it into the groove between the crank and block from the other side. Now you should have the two peices meeting each other closer to one side on the bottom of the crank. Cover the top of the cap with a tin coat of rtv. slide the rear main cap carefully up into the block and ensure with a flashlight that the seal is seated into the groove in the cap then put the 2 bolts in and turn them in by hand 11. slide the new rubber blocks into the slots between the cap and block on each side then drive in the metal pins. they must sit flush with the block or the oil pan will leak. 12. torque the main bolts to spec 13. put on the oil pickup cover 14. put on the oil pan wiht a new gasket and a magnetic drain plug from TA 15. find the paint marks you made and pu the flywheel back on, torque to spec 16. drop the motor back in and hopefully you will have no more leaks! Worked for me.
