Help with Cali emissions on 72 350 4, im VERY new aka bought car today!!!

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by marcello7x, Jul 3, 2009.

  1. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    how are the cylinders numbered...also would i se this from under the car? i dont see anything from the top w/o removing anything.
     
  2. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    On the drivers side of the engine the front cylinder is #1 and the one back from that on the same side is #3. The marking will be stamped in the deck of the block between #1 and 3 cylinders. You can not see it from under, no need to remove anything to see it but you will need a bit of steel wool or sandpaper likely to clean up the surface of the block so you can read it. These two digits are the only way to tell what the factory assembled specs were. If there really are no codes then the engine was rebuilt and the surface milled off. Another factor is that even if and engine is coded as say a 71 low comp engine it could have been rebuilt to 10:1 or who knows what, I have bought 350s like this.... Supposed low comp engines but over 10:1.
     
  3. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    Could not find the code on the block. I took pictures so you can point out exactly where it might be. Im assuming the engine was rebuilt at this point. It supposedly has 160k on the body, and the engine runs good if thats how many miles are on it as well. I'll post pics after the gym.
     
  4. Racerx88

    Racerx88 Platinum Level Contributor

    Marcello, I just noticed your signature says your car is Flame Orange. Unless your video camera is bad, that car is definitely NOT Flame Orange. Look at the body plate on the cowl under the driver's side of the hood and see what number is beside PNT. Since you have no vinyl top, it should say 65 65 for Flame Orange, but I'm guessing it'll say 63 63 for Burnished Copper.
     
  5. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    hopefuly soon to be flame orange. i realized it wasnt about 30 min after i changed the signature.
     
  6. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    where can i find vacume line diagrams? I cant do much of a search on my phone. I will search more tomorrow, but if someone has a link offhand please post. Also is there suppose to be a hole in the head on the driverside on the firewall side?
     
  7. azsigns

    azsigns Member

    You may be able to insure it as a classic through Hagerty insurance and not have to go through emissions. You must have another vehicle in your name & keep the classic in a garage. Worked for me in Arizona. Now I can build it up anyway I want.
     
  8. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    Ok here are some pics of random vac hoses not connected.

    In the first pic, what is that thing the tube in question is connected too. once again im an engine noob, well atleast a v8 carb engine noob. Should that second pipeing off of the "thing" be connected somewhere as well?

    The second picture has a vac tube connected to the carb, then plugged with a screw....its a long tube and loops off of the pic.

    The third pic is of a hold in the head cover, never had anything there and don't no if there should be, im assuming it should be plugged.

    4th pic it with the heads off. Should the number giving the hp info be between the sparkplugs. Side note. The other hole on the intake mani was plugged once the emissions extras were removed.

    Lastly my secondaries on the carb don't seem to open. By hand they move easily. but shouldn't they open under hard accelration/ high rev? is there a kit i can buy to rebuild the carb to correct this?

    I know i have a million questions at once, but i haven't had time to ask as i went along. Im trying to learn whatever i can as i finish the bodywork, so once i finish i will be diving in head first, and want some knowlege going in.


    Once again thanks in advance

    [​IMG]
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    Also is this causing any problems?
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  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The first picture shows the thermo vacuum switch for the transmission controlled spark advance. It is a pollution device. You don't need it. Leave it disconnected. There is no vacuum there, so no leak.

    The second vacuum line is plugged, but I need to see where it originates. There should be a vacuum line running from the carburetor to the vacuum advance on the distributor.


    The hole in the intake should have a rubber gromett in it, and a metal extension tube that another bigger hose (1/2" I.D.) connects to. This goes up to the PCV filter mounted in the stock air cleaner.

    The numbers you are looking for are not under the valve cover. They are stamped into the cylinder deck. There is a part of the deck that is visible between the 5 and 7 spark plugs, and above the exhaust manifolds. Normally, this area is very grungy, so you will need to de grease it and use a light if you have a chance of seeing anything. If the engine has been rebuilt, the deck is machined (surfaced) to true it up, and the numbers are lost in that case.
     
  10. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    So the thermo vacuum switch can be removed as well?

    The plugged tube connects to the carb right below the screw. Its just long and loops off of the picture.

    Someone else posted the numbers should between cylinders 1 3?

    Are the odd numbers on the driver side? and does 1 start at the front, or on the firewall side. So looking into the engine bay from the front of the car they would be as follows?

    8 7
    6 5
    4 3
    2 1
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Yes, the thermo vacuum switch can be removed from the intake. Most guys use the hole for an aftermarket temperature gauge.


    The plugged hose has manifold vacuum , and can be used to run the door in the air cleaner snorkel. It can also be used for the vacuum advance. The 72 engines used ported vacuum for vacuum advance.

    Yes, my mistake, I was thinking 455. The 350 has the production code between the number 1 and 3 spark plugs. If you look on the intake manifold, the cylinder numbers are marked where the intake meets the head. Numbers front to back on the driver's side are 1, 3, 5, 7. On the passenger side front to back the numbers are 2, 4, 6, 8. The numbers refer to the order that the connecting rods are attached to the crank shaft, front to rear of the engine.

    Most guys don't understand where the exposed portion of the block deck is. Maybe this picture will help. This is an SP 350 block (1970 315 HP, 410 TQ, 10.25:1 Compression)
     

    Attached Files:

  12. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    So my engine is def rebuilt. Im kind of upset by that, now its alot like Pandora's box. Im starting to think the carb is the problem. It idles rough but sounds ok a higher rpms. It also seems like it wants to die in drive.
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Have you checked the timing? Initial, mechanical and vacuum advance? Take a vacuum reading at idle fully warmed up in park. Have you tuned it up?
     
  14. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    No not yet, im peaking around the engine to get familiar with everthing while i finish the bodywork. Where would be a good place to find more info and or how to do everything. Like i mentioned before i'm learning everything as we speak. But i catch on quick so im not overwelmed or feel over my head...yet.
     
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Here is my thread on Timing, http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=63475


    As far as working on your car, the best book is the 72 Buick Chassis manual available in reprint, on CD ROM, and on E Bay (originals). It should be the first thing you buy before anything else. You need a timing light and vacuum gauge as well as basic hand tools.
     
  16. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  18. marcello7x

    marcello7x Marcello

    will a cheap timing light from autozone suffice, or should i look for any special features? I no sears caries them as well, if they have what apears to be a btter tool for similar pricing i will go there, or anywhere for that matter.
     
  19. Justa350

    Justa350 I'm BACK!

    I have a dial back light from Sears. Works great.
     
  20. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    I have the same one. Works fine.
     

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