1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

help with Brothers Chevy 350?

Discussion in 'The "Other" Bench' started by Shifty_al, Dec 14, 2004.

  1. Shifty_al

    Shifty_al New Member

    My Brother is having some problems with his truck and I was hoping that someone on here might have some insight...the following is his description of the problem....

    I have an '82 Chevy 1/2ton 4x4 with a 350, 2 barrel. When I first bought it 8 months ago it was running great, but in the last few weeks its been struggling a bit, and then went downhill sharply in last couple of days. At first it started missing/coughing at higher speeds (90kph+), then got to the point where it was sputtering and stalling when I went above 90, 80, 70... Now I can't even get it to take any throttle. I also noticed that it would cough and sputter if I was cruising on very little throttle - ie, I could accelerate with a fair bit of gas, and no problems, but it didn't like me floating on low throttle. For example, I can accelerate alright in 1st, but when I dip the clutch and come off the gas to take second, it coughs and sputters, unless I keep some throttle on while the clutch is disengaged. It idles fine, but misses at higher rpms, even when its not in gear. At first I thought it must be fuel pump, because it also tended to be worse when going uphill. I replaced the fuel pump, and the distributor cap, rotor and wires, and put fresh plugs in. It sounds a lot better, but still I can hardly even get it moving before I have to put the clutch in because its dying on me. I changed the fuel filter when I first bought it, and it still looks pretty clean. Now I'm at a bit of a loss. The plugs were quite fouled when I pulled them, but they don't smell or have odd discolouration, just oil. It has fouled plugs pretty quickly since I bought it. Some of the vacuum hoses are not connected, but I don't think that is the culprit, because they haven't been connected the whole time, and my problems have only been in the last 6-8 weeks. I'm at a loss where to look next, any suggestions? I thought I would check to see if there was a second fuel filter in the lines somewhere, but that was the only thought I had.
     
    Shifty_al, Dec 14, 2004
    #1
  2. mts67gs

    mts67gs Member

    Check!!!!

    check the cat converter. sounds like it is pluged up to me if you have changed evey thing else good luck MikeT
     
    mts67gs, Jan 10, 2005
    #2
  3. mechacode

    mechacode Well-Known Member

    Did it all start happening when it started getting cold out?
     
    mechacode, Jan 14, 2005
    #3

Share This Page