Our car is sitting down about 1" lower on the passenger's side. I think I have traced it to the front coil springs. We installed new 455 springs (front and back) since we swapped from the 350 to the big block. When I dug out the old 350 front springs I noticed that one was a full coil longer than the other! What gives? We are pulling the new springs back out to see if they are different, too. Are the two springs supposed to be different lengths? If so, which side should have the longer one, and why. o No:
The springs are the same length. You need to make sure you have the springs oriented correctly. In the lower A-arm spring pocket, you will see an oval hole. The coil spring end is supposed to rest next to the oval hole. Also, give your springs some time to settle, they will drop 1/2-1" within a couple months.
hate to bring this up, but couldn't also be an indication of previous frame damage, causing the car to not sit level, and the last owner "fixed" it by putting in mismatched springs?
If your car has A/C this is pretty common. I have yet to purchace a set of springs that actually are made for an A/C equipped car. I had to get a spacer from GM to put under the right spring to level the car.
I don't believe it has a twist in the frame, as when it is jacked up in the center, wheels off the ground, it sits level front and back. It IS possible that the springs were put in wrong, especially the right side one, whch seemed to ride too close to the shock.
Might be a spring upside down (been there done that) tapered side to the top. Also my springs from www.coilsprings.com had a larger (1/8) drivers side,the spring that was tagged "drivers side only". when I asked they told me the passenger side is slightly heavier. Once i flipped the spring over and lined them up with the oval hole like George said, and then added some weight the car now sits perfect. MAtt
As I recall from doing it the spring is to be rotated so that the pigtail is to be within 1/8 inch, but not over the hole, on the lower A arm. It is speced in the assembly manual.
Been there , done that.....got the T-Shirt. Put a new set of coils in my '71 350 AC car this summer. Nothing listed in any current spring source for an AC car that has two separate springs. My GM parts book states the left & right were different from the factory. Mine actually ended up an inch lower both sides & then another inch lower on the pass. side. Had the spring shop bring in a 9/16" spacer for the pass. side. This took care of the difference side-side. I have another set of new coils to go on in the Spring that should bring it back up an inch. Catalogues all call for a 5398 coil. Will be putting in # 5386. We had the suppliers manufacturer study the spring rates & advise on how to deal with it.
I understand the spring "end" goes beside the oval hole. Question: Is that the side toward the front of the car or the back?
I don't have an assembly manual. I remember everything about how this car goes together except for this one thing the students took apart. The other issue is where does a guy get the e-brake cables for the 455 car?
On the last set of front springs I did, the right spring had a white stripe on it. I remember right and left were different. As far as the orientation in the lower control arm, arent there two small holes where the spring seats? I place the end of the spring (or pigtail) in between the two holes.
Tell me how you remember the correct torque on all those bolts on the front end because there are a lot of bolts with a lot of variation in the correct torque settings. You need an Assembly manual or the Chasis manual for that.
There is a pocket/recessed area for the pigtail end that is right next to the oval hole. As for e-brake cable, get that new from www.inlinetube.com
I usually give it the "grunt test" 1 grunt= tight 2 grunts= very tight 3 grunts= that suckers not ever coming loose! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Seriously though, when was the last time you saw a mechanic look up a torque rating when doing front end work?.
Flynbuick, I have been a professional mechaninc for over 24 years.I have restored several cars, all but one of which is still on the road (my first one, when I was seventeen) I torque the bolts according to: 1- Their size. A given bolt size has a torque rating that accompanies it. I do follow published specific torque ratings on rods, mains, head bolts, etc. 2- Feel. I know how a front-end is supposed to feel and how tight the a-arms ought to be. You cannot get an accurate torque rating on a lock nut, which is what the a-arms are put together with. And no, I have never used a torque wrench on front end parts. Wheh you are working with lock nuts and castle nuts a torque wrench makes no sense. P.S.- I have never lost a patient yet.
Hooray! We redid the springs and presto! our car is no laonger lop-sided! It sits close to perfect (1/16" difference at the front frame horns). We are still going to use the shims to get it 100% perfect, but maybe we'll give the springs a little time to settle before then. Thanks for the suggestions and help. :TU:
