After the nationals I am a bit more motivated and want to lift the body off my frame. I have most of the car stripped down and I wondered if anyone has a video or pics of lifting the body off the frame. Kind of a check list of things I need to check before I lift it up. I really hope to have it lifted off next week if at all possible. I want to start doing something to this thing sitting in my driveway.
Ryan, All you need is 2 rednecks, 2 engine hoists, 2 trucks, 2 4x4’s, and a rotisserie! The emergency brake cable is one thing you will need to disconnect before you even attempt to separate the chassis from the body.
James- the only issue I had with your method was the beam in the trunk actually distorted the quarters in that area. I agree, though... James method worked. I lifted the front first, used 2 cinder blocks and a 6x6 and rested the front on that. I then went to the rear and did the same. I did this method as I was solo...
I lift with a long chain and engine hoist. Front is attached to the firewall fender mount points. I use two holes in the trunk hinge brace area (can't recall which ones exactly) to keep from distorting the trunk lip edge. Then place on homemade wooden stilts with 4x4's spanning front and back. All solo work.
Front & rear glass removed. Forklift or 2 engine hoists..... 4X6 8'. put 4x in the glass holes.... pick-up...
I used the method of 4 guys (including me), a couple beers, and "i bet we can do this pretty easy with everything stripped out of the car" attitude
Maybe on northern/crusty cars, but not on solid Texas cars! I’ve done this 4–5 times and never had any distorted quarter panels.
There are 2 holes in the rear brace that I used w/an engine hoist & ratchet strap last time - Saw a video & appeared to be where the factory lifted from to do the body drop. Fender brackets on the front but hooks have to be close in or they'll distort. Next time going to try hooking lower on the firewall similar to the rear. Two hoists would be quicker but back and forth w/one is doable. Concrete blocks, jackstands, & 2 long 4x4s. As stated above, undo the e-brake cable from the body (underneath & @ the pedal). Speedo cable, shift linkage, ground strap, engine wiring harness, etc. Had to get this one (should look familiar) pretty high to get the trailer under it. Gravel driveway made the back & forth w/the hoist a bit cumbersome but got 'er done.
Y'all need more beer involved,...I use one bent all to **** cherry picker,..chain on the center set belt holes,.. chain on the rear seat belt holes join chains at the hook on the picker,..lift and roll body out the way,...now I have just used the center seat belt holes by themselves for an empty tub Steering shaft Harness from firewall E brake cable Throttle cable Ground strap Heater hoses Speedo cable Rear bumper Beer
If I hadn't had to load the shell w/stuff, I was going to try your method on that one posted the pics of.
I used 35-gal drums & 4x4 beams. Lifted front with engine hoist via the lower body mounts, then the rear. With the 4x4s- easy to roll the chassis out.
I used to put 4 of the space saver spares on the frames before I lifted up the body. That way I didn’t have to get the body up as high to slide the frame out. Duane PS. Ryan, I bought some large steel washers, to fix body mount holes in frames if needed. I probably still have some if you need them.
