1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Help: Change Muncie Tranny Oil

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by Aerobatix, Feb 18, 2008.

  1. Aerobatix

    Aerobatix Well-Known Member

    I want to change the gear oil in the 4 speed Muncie. I looked at the tranny and there are 2 plugs on the passenger side, one near the bottom but NOT exactly on the bottom, the other is a couple of inched higher on the side of the tranny.

    I'm thinking the upper plug is for filling and the bottom one is the drain. It would appear that the bottom one will not allow ALL the old oil to drain out. Is this a problem?

    Also, what gear oil (Brand & Weight) do you reccomend for Florida temperatures (Hot).

    Thanks!
     
  2. 70aqua_custom

    70aqua_custom Well-Known Member

    Your thinking is correct on the plugs. I think the case is just thick on the bottom so nothing to worry about with all of it draining out. I would run 90W on the street or strip. Any name brand is fine.
     
  3. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    I run Amsoil 75w-90 Severe Gear oil (GL-4) in my M21.

    Works great!
     
  4. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    A suction gun makes it easy to get the new oil in.
     
  5. ibmoses

    ibmoses TORQUEMONSTERHASBEENSOLD

    You can get a suction gun at NAPA for ABOUT $11.00, it looks like a grease gun. Just get a piece if tubing to go on the end of the gun that is flexible enough to get to the bottom of the trans. You can use it to get the old oil out and to install the new.

    Bert
     
  6. Aerobatix

    Aerobatix Well-Known Member

    Thanks guys... I'll be heading to NAPA for the "Suction Gun" in the morning and then change the oil. How much oil do I need for a M20 Muncie?

    Anyone runing synthetic oil in the Muncies?

    Thanks!
     
  7. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    I don't think you are supposed to use synthetics in the
    vintage Muncie---I think some experts can chime in on this--I read something
    on the Chevelle sight but can't reference it for you. Pete
     
  8. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    The Amsoil I run is synthetic.

    2+ years, and it works great.
     
  9. David Hemker

    David Hemker Well-Known Member

    Based on my personal experience stay away from the synthetics in a vintage Muncie.

    I do a lot of pure stock racing and tried synthetics 2 different times. Broke 2 transmissions within a very short period of time. I went back to non-synthetics and have not had a problem.

    The only explanation I can come up with is that the gears were designed at a time when synthetics were not available. There have been a lot of advances in metallurgy since the 70's that allow the use of synthetics in newer transmissions. Even with new gears in the Muncies I will not run synthetics.

    The synthetics will shift easier when cold, will reduce friction losses, will leak easier and do not cling to the gears to provide a cushion like the non-synthetics.

    If you never race it or run it hard you will be ok, any sort of hard usage could lead to premature disaster.
     
  10. gs_silverfox1

    gs_silverfox1 New Member

    David, hope this gets to you as I am new to the site. I need your input on reverse lockout hardware for my 70 Stage 4 spd car. I am the Arizona Larry that talks to you at the GSCA nats each year. Also bought hood latch from you last year. please contact me.
     

Share This Page