1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

HELP! Car won't start!!

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Corellian Corve, Mar 8, 2005.

  1. Corellian Corve

    Corellian Corve Well-Known Member

    OK get this. Went to lunch in the buick this afternoon. Came back after lunch to start the car - nothing. I have power, and I can hear the soleniod click, but the starter does not turn over.

    I have not been having any electrical problems per-se. The Solenoid is new (about 2 months old) which I replaced when *I* cracked the housing checking some wires. I also recently replaced the backup lamp switch which was going bad.

    Is there a good way to test the starter or get it going? I can call a tow truck, which I would prefer not to do, but it feels like this is something simple.

    Any help appreciated. Thanks!
     
  2. bad news

    bad news old B gaser

    starter trouble

    #1 turn on the head lites have someone watch to ses if they go out /dim /or stay the same if they stay the same your starter is not engaging if they dim battery is low get a jump but if they go out its a bad battery connection //clear terminals ok by pete
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Well, it's usually a bad connection somewhere, bad battery, or bad starter/solenoid. You can try this. Turn the ignition to the run position. Then jack up the car. Short the main battery connection on the solenoid, to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. You can use a screwdriver. That will usually operate the starter, and the car will start. Could also be a bad neutral safety switch. Check the wires at the base of the column.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Backup lamp switch is incorporated in the neutral safety switch. That is most likely your problem. It's out of adjustment. Loosen the mounting bolts, and adjust it until the car starts.
     
  5. Corellian Corve

    Corellian Corve Well-Known Member

    Thanks all. I knew it was something simple, and I was right. I assumed the neutral safety switch as well, which you suggested Larry, and we were close.

    Turns out the purple wire that goes from ignition switch to the neutral safety switch had a bad connection at the ignition terminal. I made a jumper to bypass the safety switch and when that didn't work, I pulled the ignition switch. Tested the continity and it was dead. I was actually able to tighten the crimp and it fired right up. Fixed it for good tonight when I got home.

    Thanks again!
     

Share This Page