Went to start my 85 Regal with a 231 V6 motor and no fire again. I'm sure its the module again but I can't figure out why it goes through so many (at least one per year). I'm using an Accel Super coil ( with the correct color coded wires for a Buick) and a Accel module (4 pin). I don't drive the car much, maybe 100 miles per year but do bracket race it often even though it may set for weeks if no races are scheduled. I wonder if I would be better off with a stock GM coil and module as the motor sure doesn't need any hotter spark. Any ideas to why so many failures? Almost forgot to mention but the distributor was purchased new by me (stock one/non computer controlled)and the car no longer has a computer controling any functions. Thanks in advance.
I would guess lack of heat transfer from the module to the dist body .You do use the heat grease correct? Other than that, a coil with too low resistance will cause the module to handle more current and thus heat.
Also, the 2 small bolts must be tight. If they are not "tight" it negatively affects heat transfer. Yeah, I learned this the hard way. best luck
A coil can kill modules. That being said, make absolutely sure that your pick up coil is not the problem. This happened to me, and I've seen it a few times since. The leads from the pickup coil to the module flex, and they can develop an intermittent open condition resulting in no spark. You think it is the module, and you change it. When you do, you move those wires when disconnecting the old module, and that can be enough to restore continuity temporarily. Next time you have a no start condition, open the cap, and move those wires around and try again. If the engine starts, your problem is the pick up coil. The distributor has to come out to replace it. I had an intermittent no start. I changed everything, but the car would strand me every so often. Drove me nuts. It didn't stop until I changed the pick up coil (also called a pole piece)
I had the same problem with a failing coil. It would be fine until it got hot, then it would pop the module.
Guys, remember Dave Ray, the Ignitionman? He would say all the time that the internal HEI coils were epoxy filled and would run very hot. One way around that is to use the MSD HEI cap kit that lets you use a conventional oil filled cylindrical coil and coil wire.
I agree with the guys suggesting the ignition coil's appetite for current. The coil creates that current by having low primary resistance. The low primary coil resistance raises the current being switched by the transistors in the module. I suggest that you try a module being sold as a high output module. This will reduce the possibility of a mis-match. The other possibility is to use an external "box" type ignition. It will have the room for the current controlling components, will be better at dissipating the heat involved, and will be better designed for the use of high output coils. Though the box will be more expensive, it will perform better, and will likely be a better survivor. Ray
When Dave lived in the Los Angeles area some years ago, I used to spend as much tine in his shop as I had to spend. I can te4ll you that Dave had a number of HEI module failures with coils that were going out, but didn't actually show their ill health. I personally saw HEI modules go out after 30 seconds, MSD, Mallory and Crane boxes fail in less than a minute. Dave taught ne to NOT trust resistance tests on the coils and modules, to go find a parts store with a "run tester", a tester that actually simulates a running system, and LOAD TEST the coils and modules. Resistance tests are inconclusive, load tests tell the real story on health of parts. I have had more than a few coil in cap HEI coils show just fine when they were cool, and fail when they got to operating temps. Dave used to recommend MSD Blaster coils, they being made in the U.S.A., but, when their production went to Mexico, he went to Accel, then, a couple of years later, they went to Taiwan, and all those had issues that would also blow modules, even in his small body HEI's that used the remote oil filled coils. The issue with those oil filled coils was what he called "layer shorting", a disintegration of the insulation material between all the primary windings inside the coils. This is why he used to get all over me for only using resistance tests, he always would trundle me up to the local Auto-Zone store, where they let HIM run the tester. We never found a dead, or dying coil with resistance tests, but always found them with the run/load tests. Dave's been really ill this last year, he was injured while moving his sister from Los Angeles, two broken ribs, dislocated shoulder, then, he stopped a robbery at a convenience store, and got shot twice, once ion the gut, missed everyting, and in the left hip. He had just gotten over all that, was going back to his shop, when he had a serious lung infection. That was almost healed, when a couple of months ago, he got bitten by a black widow spider, IN THE HOSPITAL. I understand the spider died. Dave's just about to get back into the shop in a week or so. He said he can't wait to get back to the normal day to day stuff that tries to kill him, as all the rest of this stuff hasn't been to friendly to him. Regards, Milton
Well its 2011 and so far this year I have changed two more modules because the car won't start after it sets a week or so. Two weeks ago it wouldn't start again so instead of changing the module I just took the distributor cap loose, lifted it up, put in back down and fastened it and hit the key and it started immediately. Guess I either got a power wire with a break in it or something loose? Can't believe I have changed like 5 modules (and threw them away) when the problem is else where. What drives me crazy though is that after taking the cap loose then putting it back down the engine will start all day no matter how many times you start it and shut it down.
i had a problem on my 49 chevy truck i changed everything i ended up being that my motor was not grounded good enough try adding a couple more ground cables :TU:
