There's an interesting thread on the V6 board about headlights. Of course, theirs are square and ours are round. What type headlights are people running here to light things up and avoid the occasional moose crossing? Personally, I prefer not to have to rewire any relays, but that's just me. Years ago I had a set of flamethrowers, I'm sure there are much better alternatives now to light up the road.
I've used the BMW round headlights, when I ran, ram air through the headlights on a Skylark. The BMW's are the small diameter and have the high and low beam and are halogen, I am getting ready to put four of them in on my `66 today so I will see how that goes. I also ran the relays. The relay upgrade can be hidden and undetectible, I left mine out in the open, but after tying into the wire harness and re-taping it and the way I made the panel, looks very sanitary. Dave P.S. I helped Ron Lodge a little bit when he built the `66 Riv GS you have. That car is BEAUTIFUL!
I still have the old T3's in mine ....but the high beams are slowly turning white from leakage. Sylvania doea carry direct replacements that are halogen, so there is no need to rewire anything, and never really has been a reason to do so that I know of. They also have come out with the HID lighting for the low beams as well. Here is the parts numbers: Low beam headlamp Part number = H5006 Upgrade Part Number = X5006 Xenarc High Intensity Discharge Upgrade Kit High beam headlamp Part number = H5001 I will be going Halogen probably this summer, and may even try those HID lights, if I can stand to have that blue "glow" on the GS.
Thanks for the advice. Think I'll look for the Sylvanias. Dave, thanks too. You're right about the Riviera. It is unbelievable - better than new and I know what I'm talking about. Thanks also for help expediting the headers for the LV event. Was great having a car out there.
Guys, if you are wanting the best in headlamps, go with Cibie euro code quartz halogen's. A little expensive at about $60 each, but you will be able to see where you are going...yes, you'll have to run a relay on the high beam side, but well worth the effort. Once you're accustomed to a light that the rest of the world uses, you'll never go back to what is "stock" in our car's. They are that much better.
After this discussion I decided to use the Sylvanias, mostly for $$ reasons. None of the local stores had the "X" series, but I had Checkers look it up, and on their all knowing computer they came up at $550 a piece. I got the usual answer from the staff, none of which were older than 25 years old and don't know how to use a book, they told me that must be right if the computer says it. I know they have a million parts to deal with, but they have no feedback system, I mentioned it to the manager and he could care less. Dave
Brad... Where did you get those at?? Part #'s. I might be interested in some. I can't stand being infront of a new car by four or five car lengths (our cars) in the next lane, and thier lights being brighter on the road then mineou: Not to mention the Shadow my car creats when those cars are behind me. I was actually thinking of cutting out the back of some stock lights for the newer bulb replacements... (PITA though, I can imagine). Thanks
Dave, The kit, with both HID low beams and the related hardware is here http://www.sylvania.com/xenarc/prodinfo.htm browse around there, and you will find the link to the kit for the 5 3/4 round headlamps (X5006) $500 ..:eek2: Just before I left the dealership, one model came out with these lamps.. they are a very bright, pure white light... not the blue lights.. And they are really incredible.. more like aircraft landing lights than auto headlights. They are not a filiment bulb of any type.. HID stands for "High Intensity Discharge"... basically, an arc jumps between two electrodes.. Very cool... when you turn the headlights on, the sensation is more like lighting your gas grill, then turning a light bulb on...there is a little delay, as the arc jumps the gap. Maybe these light kits will come down in price in the future, as the technology ages a little.. right now, they are the latest thing. JW
Jeff, See the link below. Don't bother with the "city light" option or the "flat face"...5 3/4" size is what you want. The High beams will require a 20 amp relay. I have, in the past, just cut the high beam wires (it's green in the wire bundle that runs along your drivers side fender, under the hood), wired the green wire coming from the firewall to the "switch"side of the relay, added a power wire (10 ga. MINIMUM) from the battery, and then wired the green wires going to the headlights on the "lamp" side of the relay. Used this with 100 watt bulbs without problem for many years. http://www.cibie.net/cibie_main_frameset.htm Make sure these are aimed correctly...the low beams have a very sharp horizonal cut off that will blind oncoming traffic if they are not properly aimed (ie: too high). These are european code headlights that cast a broad even light on low beam and a knock your socks off down the road bright light on high beam (9800' reflective range!!!!). You will like them and wonder how you ever got along without them...I promise:Smarty: PS: I have these in my 72 Centurion convert. wired as outlined above with 100 watt bulbs (in place of standard 55 watt bulbs) for over 5 years without any problem at all. Nobody leaves there high beams on at me when I flash them with mine!!
Thanks Brad.... :beer That's exactly what I was wanting to do. Now I can't wait till I can "See the Light"..lol. To bad the wife has allready gotten my presants:ball: .... Oh well, there's allways my Feb bonus. :grin: Now.... To do all two high's and two high/low's.... or all four High/low's :Brow: Put that 80 amp Alt. to GOOD use Cops arn't too picky here:TU:
5.75-HR & 5.75-HCR @ $55 each Those the ones we want? Might call 'em up, if they have a pickup window, drive down and get them, maybe stop by Daves place and bug 'em a bit... :grin: :gt: I put Sylvania's in mine, they work alot better then T3's, tho are uneven in brightness between bulbs.. Anyone recommend a place to aim these old headlights? One guy suggested a 76 Station.. I had to uzzled: and walked away.. Great thread!
Guys, Click the "Specials" tag on the main page.. Those lights are on sale for $39 each right now..:TU: JW... and yes, I do accept tips..:laugh:
Only the High Beam tho... The Low/High are still $55 each... Nonetheless you still save $32 on the pair.. :TU:
Jeff, You want 2 Hi/Low's and 2 Hi's, just like you have now in your car. You only need a relay on the highbeam side (green wire). The Hi/Low (outside) light uses a H4 dual filiment (?sp) bulb and the Hi's use a H1 single filiment bulb. DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!!! Post if you have any further questions, be glad to help.
Thanks Brad... I was being more sarcastic than serious with that post (thinking like a ricer)ou: ou: ou: ou: all in fun tho... would never actually do it. Did you have to do anything to mount them or did the original headlight rings fit good enough to hold them in?? Wireing (sp) is not a prob as I have plenty of relays (done lots of work with sound systems, cell phone install kits, etc.) and wire, loom, etc. thanks, I'll post if I have any probs when I get them. I can't wait..
The Cibie's fit like a glove...no need to modify headlight buckets, hold down rings or headlight doors. They are a direct replacement for the crappy sealed beams you have in there now. I'll say it again...PLEASE be sure to aim them correctly. If you don't, you'll PO everybody on the road.
75-HCRA 5 3/4" "E-code" Halogen Low / High Beam Cibie H4 with European Parking Lamp $57.00 ea can we use those fancy schmancy ones with the european parking lamp on our cars? or does this involve too much? for 2 dollars more they might look cool.
about 10-15 years back i had some cibies. they were excellent. but also realize that if your car has vigilites, the cibies and most of the H4 and siverstar style headlights are not compatible with the vigilite system. adding relays is a good idea on ANY old car headlight system. it takes some of the strain off of old wiring and old contacts inside the headlight switch. it also gives a better supply voltage to the bulb itself. use a good brand of plug-in relay and carry a spare in the glove box.
HTML: Anyone recommend a place to aim these old headlights? One guy suggested a 76 Station.. I had to and walked away.. Because the Cibie lights have such a clear cutoff line, and they angle up on the right, I used to aim them at my local Safeway store. I would drive up to about 25' away from their blank wall on flat ground, so the car was perpendicular to it.(90 degree angle) Take a tape measure and measure from the ground to the center of the headlight, and then measure to the cut off line on the wall. Your measurement should be slightly less on the wall as the lights should be pointed slightly down. Next, go to the rear of your car, and sight through the windows down the center and note where the up angles on the light cut off are. They should be slightly right. Next, drive your car in a dark area and see if you're happy with the dispersement. You may have to go back and make adjustments. These lights are designed to work best at that slightly down, slightly to the right setting. I got to the point that I could aim them on my pants leg at night if I was carrying a load and had to reaim. The Cibie's are coated metal reflectors and precision ground lenses, that in my opinion, are still better than what is offered today, although bulb technology has certainly improved. Todays lights are plastic lenses, and Complex Surface Reflectors (CSR) that are coated plastic. They are there primarily for styling purposes. If you can't find Cibie, try Hella or Bosch, as they offer 5 3/4" lights too. John C
