Header Tips or Tricks

I'm installing a set of TA Performance 1-7/8's stage 1 long-tube headers in a 72 Skylark with a 455. Looking for any insight on the install. Are these installed from the bottom up or top down?

Thanks

 

Put the gaskets in last.
Get both headers hanging on the bolts then use a tin snip to cut a slot from the bottom of each bolt hole up to the bolt, then you can simply slip the gasket in.

You can even cut the gasket into 2 or 4 sections lenght wise.

Be sure to disconnect the battery before even jacking the car up off the floor!

 

great feedback, now I have a starting point. Much appreciated.

 

Also, a second set of hands makes a big difference too!

 

The center bolt is going to be a pain. Make sure the middle bolt is in as far as possible and the header flange is slotted so you can just drop it on and not have to run it all the way down with a wrench. It is going to take a bit of time and you will get good at flipping the wrench to move it 30° at a time. If you have small hands, it is easier. If you have big hands, get a small-handed person to help.

 

You'll go through any number of heat cycles before gasketing is stabilized and bolts no longer loosen. Be diligent in checking the bolts; and some will loosen while others never seem to. Eventually you'll get to the point where once a year is all that's really necessary. The only bolt requiring gymnastics is that driver's side rear; you'll be under the car for it on a four speed car. Not sure for automatic, but certainly likely.

 

Certain bolts need to be started as the header is fed towards the head. Do not tighten any bolts until all of them are in.

 

I did it that way on my last install.
I slotted the center lower bolt hole on the flange and was able to start the bolt quite a few threads into the head, then hung the header on the bolt and continued from there.
Worked awesome

 

Greg, is that on the driver or passenger side? Thanks

 

I would recommend 12pt head bolts if you don't have them already.I use them on my bell housing also.Make install alot easier.
Chris

 

I like to use an ignition wrench to put the bolts in and get them to the point of final tightening. I then switch to another thin one I have to finish.

 

Not to hijack the thread but if doing a valve job and wanting to install headers at the same time, what would be best procedure? This is on a 350.

 

Valve job first

 

Got it, thanks, that helps a lot.

 

I slotted the rear bolt. As well as the center. Hung it on the rear. Swing it in place start front, snip the gasket and drop down, start the rest ofvthe bokts and have fun.......I used a 1/4 ratchet short socket wobble and extension and went through the wheel well on my center.......but my motor is moved back towards the firewall and can't say if something else is in the way for stock location motors

 

Does the steering shaft need to come out?