my 71 skylark, 455. Last weekend, I ranked the older TA headers out. I was not too concerned about injuring them, so I yanked then out easy peasy. Now.....to the NEW TA 455 headers, that I just had coated......the passenger side slipped in like a glove!! Took 10 seconds. The driver side not so. Jacked up the car high......but they keep hitting the steering shaft before I can get it in the right place. I have already scratched them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ugh. Any tips?? Was thinking about unbolting the lower steering shaft at the rag joint. Would I be able to then move the shaft far enough to allow me to get the header in place??
Issue is those casting blocks prevent the entry angle you need to make them slip rite in.....cut those off and they will literally fall into place My suggestion....besides cutting them off is remove the 3 steering box bolts..use a jack to push it up the inch you need to let it go in
The ear on the bellhousing gets in the way to....I trim them back also....as I don't run a converter cover ....better air flow for cooling
You can do several things. I never thought jacking the engine helped. Usually, they go right in if you have the car up high enough. One of the things I remember that helped on my buddy's car we did this spring was to remove the shifter back drive off the transmission. Another was the complete removal of the steering intermediate shaft. It comes loose from both ends pretty easily. If the steering shaft rubs the tubes when you get it together, you can push it a bit by doing 3 things. First, loosen all 3 steering box bolts and tilt it forward. That raises the shaft a smidge. Second, loosen the bolts that hold the steering column under the dash. Push the column toward the center of the car. This can give you a smidge more as it pivots at the firewall and away from the headers. Finally, loosen the firewall/column plate bolts and push the plate up or to the outside or both, whichever you can get. Each one isn't more than a thread width but all 3 can give you just enough.
Thanks everyone. Yeah I'm putting the headers in from underneath. As I said the passenger header went in flawlessly right up inside and attached a few bolts to hold it there. On the driver side I'm pretty sure that I can shove push twist and force it in place except that in the process I will ding and scratch and destroy my newly coated headers which I'm trying to avoid. The real issue seems to be getting the header to curve the right way for that first pipe to just clear that lower steering shaft so that's why I thought if I just temporarily remove that section of shaft I'll be able to now make the bend work and not destroy the headers as I have already put a few scratches in them that is making me sick to my stomach LOL. Too late I suppose for me to cut those blocks that stick out on the actual side of the block, I have cut the ears off the bell housing a while back but as I said the clearance issue is up higher rather than down below. Maybe I just need to jack it a little bit higher I'm not sure will wrestle with it tonight. And I agree that lifting the motor a little will probably give me less clearance than more. Anyhow thanks I'll keep you posted
If the collector is hitting the floor while trying to get the header in, it will help to raise it. We had to get my buddy's car higher than his jack and stand would go so wound up using blocks of wood to get another 4" up and it made the difference. I did the MT Repros without a lift and it was a bear to get my car high enough. I needed nearly an extra foot over my jack's ability to get them up in the car.
To get my MT’s in I removed steering Box and shaft. Also jacked the engine a little on drivers side. to avoid scratching wrapped in shrink wrap I love using these race ramps when doing work under my car since I don’t have a lift at home. I Get a lot of height and feel safe!
Thanks everyone again!!! Phew!! Finally. As stated, passenger went in untouched. The trick as suggested, was unbolting the steering box, let it drop a few inches. Then zip tying the shaft out of the way....and yes, jacking the car to the heavens! lol. But.....I got it in. What aggravated me, is before having the headers ceramic coated, I slotted the middle bolt hole to drop it over the bolt already installed as I did on the passenger side. But I just did not have enough room. So now.......how to I get this middle bolt in and treaded??? Some installation scratches also that make me want to cry......but.....its in
Well......I kind up messed up. Just realized, now I can't drop the steering shaft below the header pipe to reattach to the steering box. What a dummy. There is not enough clearance between the header pipe and upper control arm. Hmm.....so two questions, How to I remove the shaft? Up near the firewall, there is a large bolt that clamps down I assume on the shaft. Can I just remove that bolt and knock the shaft out tow install it under the header pipe? I really don't want to do anything from under the dash. Also, trick to get that driver side center header bolt started and threaded?
Yes, you can take it out of the end of the steering column at the firewall. Just one pinch nut/bolt and it will slip off the splines. That's what we did. As for the center bolt, I have done them from the bottom with a stubby 7/16" wrench. You will have to turn the bolt, flip the wrench over and move it a bit more then turn it over and repeat for about 20 minutes. A gear wrench/ratcheting wrench may be a good choice if you can get it in there. As for the scuffs, I'd touch them up with BBQ paint. With any luck, you will hardly notice them once the shaft is back in.
I used to use a 1/4"drive 3/8 12 point on a swivel and through from behind the tire to get that bolt. I always slotted my rear bolt and set them in as the motor went in. But I had the do the same thing with my stage 2 with the steering shaft
