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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Header Gaskets... How Annoying!

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by Yardley, Oct 18, 2002.

  1. Yardley

    Yardley Club Jackass

    Blew ANOTHER header gasket on the way to work this morning.:moonu: What a crappy sound! And I really wasn't in the mood to jack the engine, pull the gasket, scrape both the header and head clean and reinstall the header. I have better things to do.

    Well, at least I won't even get my fingers dirty. It's been apart so many times I can do anything I want without ever needing to wash up afterwards.

    I guess I know what I'll be doing tonight.:gt:

    damn.
     
  2. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    The trick to header gaskets was told to me long ago......keep Torkin' them......every chance you get.

    3 to 4 times a year i put the wrench on them and grunt......plus every time i get under the car i bring along my shorty 3/8" wrench - for the back ones on each side.

    Mines been together for 3 years now and never a blow-out.
     
  3. Stage2Scott

    Stage2Scott Well-Known Member

    i stepped up to the 16 bucks a set purple gaskets from TA performance and havent had ANY problem with them. and this is on a regularly street driven car in HOT southern california.
     
  4. brblx

    brblx clueless

    i've had better luck with hooker gaskets than TA's...i was using the normal ones, though, i think they were white. (350)
     
  5. Mike Bucy

    Mike Bucy Administrator Staff Member

    Header Gaskets!

    Hey Jeff,

    TA's gaskets work well for us. A few things you might want to try this time when you install your new header gaskets. Make sure the bolts are plenty long i.e. 1 1/4 and try to get hardened alen head bolts. Tighten'm up good and tight. Run the car for about 100 MI. Take each header bolt out one at a time, add lock tight to the threads and torque'm down real good again. You'll probably get another 1/2 turn more or so this time. The gasket has a tendency to shrink a little durring its first few days of life, not as bad with the TA gasket. After doing this with my GranSport I never had another gasket fail.

    I think you'll be happy with the results.:TU:
     
  6. brblx

    brblx clueless

    the last time i replaced the gasket with hookers i got almost no backing out of the bolts.:Do No:

    and in my 350 i'm using 3/4" bolts...can i/should i go longer?
     
  7. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    Jeff-

    A couple of pointers to try to help...

    First of all, I have cut my gaskets into sections. That way if I blow out a gasket, I only have to replace the section that blows. Each side is cut into three pieces- one for the front tube, one for the middle two tubes (three bolt holes) and one for the rearmost tube.

    Secondly, I never use any gasket sealer, and my gaskets never stick to either surface - if they do ever blow, they just fall out and I install the new section dry (only takes a couple of minutes).

    Lastly, everyone seems to have their favorite gasket- if one keeps giving you problems, keep trying new ones until they work. I had a header bolt back off at the track last night and ran twice with it loose- the gasket was still intact so I just tightened the bolt and drove home.

    -Bob Cunningham
    bobc@gnttype.org
     
  8. 73-462GS

    73-462GS GS Mike

    One thing I found that works is to use a flat washer under the head of the bolt. It seems to help keep the bolt from backing out. Like the other guys, I retorque the bolts after the first heat cycle. That should be it. If the header sealed up when installed it never leaks again. Mike D.:laugh:
     

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