Well I cracked a cylinder again it as been 200 passes and almost 3 year and the same # 7 cylinder that i had sleeved cracked again. So i'm going to hard bloc fill it and resleeve it sence the rest of the motor looks like new and it doesn't owe me anything been running this motor since 1998. Any tips on this I have never filled a block before and would like to fill it as much as possiable i need it to live for 1 more year then i hope to have the money to get a new set-up going just not in the funds right now.thanks
i was thinking about Doing a partial fill so i feel safer with stock rods and 6000 rpms. maybe keep the mains a little more stable. what about internal balancing? Wonder why your wall keeps cracking. wonder if there is a flaw in your block?
i used muriatic acid to clean the water jackets in mine. mixed it soupy and poured it in from the front of the block then the back. when it was all poured in i put the head on and torqued it down. hope that helps. Cody
I use an air chisel on the engine stand to vibarte the air out of the fill.You can loop heater hose across to keep the fill out of the waterpump coolant openings.X2 on a head or torque plate. Jamie
Is the car ever driven on the street? If so, only do 1/2 fill if not then full fill. Doing even a 1/2 flll wll help keep the front end down at the launch. After you do a block fill, water temperture will not be as important. You need to get an oil temperture guage and watch it.
I am not sure of your question about your temperture question. Adding block fill (at least 1/2 full) will make a block stronger and more stable. By adding fill to the space there will be less water to carry off the heat made. Results will vary with a bunch of "depends". Time to get up to operating temperture. Weight added to the block. abality to keep at a temperture. Time to cool down after shut off. By adding a oil temperture guage, you be able to see that the entire engine temperture is increasing/at the correct operating temperture better.
As far as I know you will have to re-bore or at least re-hone the cylinders after the fill. Someone will correct me if I am wrong.
No, it is not street drive any more than up the road and back,this block as had a hard life 13 years of low ten sec to high 9 sec runs at 6900+ rpms so i'm only tring to keep it running for one more year, so i was planning to do a full fill but not sure who full i can go it can only be filled to the bottom of the water pump hole with the cylinder deck leveled off right? as for the oil guage i already got that. Thanks
As a auto machinist, I have done more blocks then I really care to talk about, I suggest 3/4 fill, but follow through with the cleaning process as someone mentioned on here. 3/4 fill is as strong as full fill and still allows water to cool your engine. As a rule of thumb most water only circulates the top 1/4 of your engine any way the rest just gets warm by way of oil and heat is drawin out by the block or way of heat rising. I would not suggest putting the torque plate or cylinder heads on when letting it dry, the block still needs to be machined regardless what anyone say's! Hard bloc will distort anything once it starts hardening. I hope this helps you out if not please contact your machinist to farther your education on hardblocing.
Filling to the water pump opening in the block is a full fill? If that is the case, can the engine be street driven short distances, 15-20 miles? Thanks, David
David, You got monitor the oil temp to know for sure....if it gets 250+ you would need to add an oil cooler to make it live on the street. I am at that point right now trying to figure out if mine will work w/o one. Only driving it will tell. Regards
i filled my to the water pump holes that is a half fill a full fill is to the top of the deck. some guys put a greased tube in the block then pull ot out when they completely fill it so there is still some water passage. Cody
I have a 3/4 fill no oilcooler yet, but can drive on the street depeding on oustide temps for 20-30 miles, or 30-40 minutes in city driving. Strange that your sleeve cracked also, sleeve are normally if I remember right stronger then the block normally is. Could be block flex?
Im sure the issue is for core shift in the block....14 years of racing a 40 year old piece on iron.....just need to get one more year//
