GS Buick 1970 Stage 1 Camshaft

Discussion in 'TA Performance' started by meshke, Dec 22, 2013.

  1. meshke

    meshke Member


    I want to know witch camshaft will be the exact replacement for Buick GS 1970 Stage 1? not stronger.
    As I am restoring my Engine i want it to be exact factory.

  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Part number TA STG1 is still shown in their catalog though not on their website:

    You can contact them directly at (480) 922-6807.

  3. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Research and technology. And engineering. I am not dissing ! But cam shafts today are sooooo much better. I do not think that people care about originality . But if you want that cam then I think that’s cool.
  4. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    I built my engine 20 yrs ago. And listened to the club. And got a lunati. 230-240 and very happy . Before Holley bought them.
    But today if I built an engine. I would have to ask Jim Wiese opinion. He would have the best advice
  5. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Jim Weise
  6. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    You need one that will be a bit stronger that was from the factory to be equal today to compensate for today's crappy gas available! That is if you want it to feel like you're driving the car in 1970.

    OR you can run race gas or AV gas all the time when you drive the car with a factory spec cam so the car will feel the same as 1970.
  7. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    Crappy gas? How is it crappy?
  8. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Its soooooooooooooooooo crappy that its more like cat pee than gas compared to gas from 1970!:D
  9. rkammer

    rkammer Silver Level contributor

    Not really that bad. Today's 93/94 isn't more than a point or two at the most lower than 1970s 100 octane stuff. My 455 with 10.6:1 compression runs fine on 93. (even with 34 degrees of total timing). Here's a discussion on another forum that goes into detail on fuel octane then and now.
  10. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    4 plus years old guys...
    wovenweb likes this.
  11. wovenweb

    wovenweb Platinum Level Contributor

    Yes, but the OP may still need some help, lol!
  12. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Well “ Ethanol” - carburetor = junk carb
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  13. Weisguy184

    Weisguy184 Well-Known Member

    I agree with scuba Steve. I have Jim Weise rebuilding the engine for my 1970 GS Stage 1 Convertible and after a lengthy discussion I chose not to use the factory stage 1 cam.
  14. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    Wow sounds like maybe you're just wasting money buying gas. Try running your car on Cat urine.

    The truth is today's fuel is better. It burns cleaner; is far less poisonous; supports brand new 700 horsepower American engines; and remarkably, works in carbureted and fuel injected applications. The only trouble I see in my lone carbureted car is a propensity to evaporate the float bowl contents after a week of sitting. All my hoses and carb rubber parts are 24 years old and remain unbothered by 10 percent ethanol.
  15. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    The engines of 1970 were designed to run on the poisonous stuff and they did run much better on it.

    Back in the mid eighties when you could still buy "regular" that had lead in it, when I ran that stuff in my '69 Grand Prix it ran SO much better than even the high octane unleaded did. Better MPG, better seat of the pants acceleration better cold starts and so on.

    Today's gas IS cat pee compared to the old gas when running it in an old carbureted car. That being said, the lead needed to come out because it was lead poisoning everyone. Unfortunately they haven't come up with anything close to replacing the lead they use to put in fuel so the train drivers had to design the engines to burn the crap formulated gas.
  16. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I agree today's fuels have some advantages, but I will say I back my suburban into the garage the other day, had a slight fuel leak, didn't want it to stink the garage up all day when I closed the door........pulled the truck out and away figured I would just quickly burn it off so it wouldn't linger and stink when the wife came home. Took my propane touch to it........wouldn't home from work still wet fuel on the floor, plus had a pissed off wife.

    Something wrong when a puddle of gas won't burn off when lit with a tourch
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  17. rkammer

    rkammer Silver Level contributor

    The leak was probably water. :D
  18. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Yeah, it's smelled like gas, it's one of those things where I've known and smelled the leak, just haven't been able to see it............turns out its the the tank, the burn has a metal tank holder/sheild, and only when in park with the front down hI'll does it run off that. Course I had just filled it 2 days ago, and it holds 42 gal. But getting of topic.......for sure was not water.

    I know if I spill some race gas or avgas on the floor, even in the 30s that stuff evaporat's in very little time, but 8 hts later for it to still be liquid gas on the concrete and it was in the 50s that day
  19. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    I can assure you gas is still flammable. (Did I really have to type that?)
  20. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I know it's all truck was running ad it was leaking in the garage.

    Just never seen a puddle of liquid gas that wouldn't light with a flame. This wasnt oil nasty 3y/o gas. I've have seen that before. I also understand its the vapors that burn not the liguid........but always been able to light a puddle b4 and slowly burn it off so it didn't evaporate in a confined area and make an explosion ready situation.

Share This Page