As I have mentioned on another thread, I have just removed the clutch and trans from my '72 GS 455 clone. Everything felt like it was binding and shoving the clutch pedal will move the engine ahead. This tells me there is a geometry issue. I just got the car and had to put it into storage last fall, so I don't have a lot of seat time in the car to really know what it's supposed to feel like, but I know it should be smoother. In the end, the car had to be towed to storage because it would not go into gear and the clutch was not doing anything. Anyway, my brother and I remove the trans and clutch from the car and found the flywheel was heat cracked (checked) and the clutch disc was heavily worn. The pressure plate looked fine. (It's a Centerforce Dual Friction). Today, I ordered a flywheel, throwout bearing, ARP flywheel bolts and a new clutch fork form T/A Performance. I'll be getting the clutch from a local speed shop. What do you think of my parts choice thus far? Would you just replace the clutch disc or the entire thing (pressure plate and all)? Thanks in advance for your input.
Clarkie Did 4 wheel in hanover turn out being cheapest spot here to get the center force dual friction
They were much cheaper than Performance Improvements. 4 Wheels can get me a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch for $385 for the kit, and $160 for the disc only. I think I am only going to replace the disc since a mechanic friend of mine (who has his share of high performance cars) said the pressure plate looks fine and that if it were him, he'd just get the clutch disc. Opinion?
Brad, Saw your post on the other thread. I've used the McLeod 16505 adjustable TO bearing. It comes with spacer rings to make up the height. This, along with an adjustable ball stud (either Lakewood, or McLeod) will help bring the geometry together. What's the rest of your combo for 4 speed stuff? Who's Z bar and linkage are you using? Fork? Bellhousing?
The transmission is a Muncie m-20, the clutch fork is new and coming from TA Performance, and when I questioned about it, they told me it would work. The clutch is a Centerforce Dual Friction, the throw out bearing is also from TA Performance, as is the new flywheel and bolts. I will be using a roller pilot bearing. The Z-bar and linkage I am told are from Dave Kleiner. The bellhousing is a scattershield that the previous owner told me was developed by George Nenadovich. I also have an adjustable ball stud. The Z-bar is at an angle towards the firewall, and I would think needs to be more perpendicular to the side of the engine. Am I wrong in thinking this? Thanks in advance for all input.
Between the parts you have and are getting you should be able to get a nice easy pedal. Others here have with the Kleiner pieces. Here's a pic of my Z bar. It is not perpendicular to the motor and I believe its because of the Z bar frame bracket, but my car has always been a stick so..... You may be able to check that there is no binding with lower linkage rod disconnected.
Thanks for your input Paul. That photo should help me with my own set up. With any luck I'll get back at it next weekend. This board rocks!
I just got the flywheel, flywheel bolts, throwout bearing, and clutch fork from TA Performance. It turns out the fork (PN TA 2039D) is not the type that uses a clevis pin, so it looks like I'll need to re-use my old one. The old one shows a little wear, but it should work (with any luck).
The "little wear" can likely be cleaned up if you have a neighbor who used to weld for the US Navy, as do I. He cleaned up the worn spots like new. No comment on parts sold by TA, advertised to work, and instead being incorrect. Really, I mean it. I have no comment. ou:
I was very excited to be getting a new "correct" clutch fork from TA Performance. I was surprised they had one and told the person on the phone this because I knew BBB clutch forks are hard to come by. I was very disappointed to find my new fork was very different than the one I already had. Anyway, here are a few pics of the clutch fork they sent me. I can't make this work, can I? What is the actual application for this piece? SBB, Pontiac, Olds? o No:
Brad The fork you show in the photo is for a small block Buick. That is exactly what I have on my original Buick. George
One of the ears is broken off of the throw out bearing retention spring. I have removed the old rivet and spring from the original (and correct) clutch fork. Will the spring from the new TA clutch fork work on the original fork? I'm thinking I can grind one end off of the rivet, punch it out, and put the new spring on the original fork and then weld a nut to the end of the rivet to keep it in place. This should work, no?
That is a fairly common malady. Yes - your method would work. I highly suspect the retention spring is available: Clutch Fork Retainer Spring #3849698, group #0.796. Here it is on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1957-81...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6d4750e8 With that part number you can probably find it elsewhere.
Thanks for the part number of the retainer spring Brad. I will keep it for future reference. I think I'm going to remove the spring from the incorrect fork I got from TA Performance. By the time I pay to ship it back to Arizona and pay the 15% restocking fee, I might as well just use it to make my original fork work.
