Got jiggy with it. 4L80E behind 455 BBB

Ton of info. Here are just a hand full of links:

Post #2 has a parts list. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?297332-4L80e-Behind-a-455-Info-needed
Post #44 has pic of install in a Riviera. See the .pdf attachment in that post. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?157013-nother-1970-Riviera-owner/page2&highlight='nother+70
Post #7 see attachement as well: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?256412-final-trans-choice&highlight=4L80e

 

This is the thread I started when I first entertained installing the 4L80e. Chad, you had a lot of input on this thread :TU: thank you

 

the way it sits, (level) there is a -10 degree angle between trans output and pinion input. the yoke is at -6 degrees and the pinion it at +3 degree. the pinion angle changes with weight put on the frame. Now I may not be answering the question properly. So please advise me how to understand this. It's my understanding, I would want a -6 & +6 to eliminate vibration. the way it sits right now...it's off

 

X2! How about it?

 

Jim, Thanks for all your help on this and for the great deal on the converter. I haven't bolted it to the SFI flexplate yet. I will PM you with questions I have.

X3... whats a thread sticky do o No: bundle all the info into one thread ?

 

On a normal thread,
each time someone posts a reply, the thread is pushed to the top.

On a sticky thread,
The thread is permanently 'pinned' to the top (along with other stickies )

Only the admins can pin it as a sticky

 

Thanks James,

 

Todays project: Fabricate mount extensions
Got the cross member finished on the 4L80e.
Came out clean.



I just realized this thread is now a sticky. I will post my progress if it can help others with their projects. very cool.

 

Nice job here Joe. :TU:
The overdrive trans is a nice addition to a 67 Skylark. :bglasses:
Now that you are a celebrity.

 

Heres the NEW USshift Trans control system. I don't know that I need 4 programs. the Quick1 holds 2 for 170 bucks less.
http://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml

 

I know I am being critical and admittedly not an expert, but why does any controller need more than one program for shifting. uzzled: Why not make it shift as if it were a full analog system like the trusty THM400? I guess it could store a comprehensive program that covers all of this.

Its pricing seems reasonable with all that it provides.

 

My thought was a mild program for standard street use and a more aggressive program for WOT street/strip use. I'm not sure why anyone would need four. I like the adjustable shift points. also able to switch programs on the fly. go into manual shift as well. this company has the TPS and the harness. my big question is can I link the tcm to my programmable ignition system. to omit the rpm sensor. hahaha, I have to laugh. I almost sound like I know what i'm talking about.

 

Thats kinda what I am picking at. Adjusting line pressure on the fly should be easy to shift like the original '70 455 Stage 1 at WOT. The remaining logic should be exactly like to mimic the trusty THM400 setup. :beers2:

Depends on ignition system design and some good 'ol fashion know how. It can be done so that your engine compartment isn't wrapped up in wires and sensors. :shock:

 

Attaching the torque converter to the SFI flexplate. sometimes the math is just dead on.
I have 5/16" gap between the converter and the plate. Jim at TSP advised the TSP converter needs to be pulled out 3/16" from the trans.
This leaves 1/8" gap and I need to clear the weight on the flexplate.
the adapter plate is where the extra 1/8" is coming from and with the spacers supplied with the adapter plate
It all zeros out and the converter clears the weight on the flexplate.
Sometimes things have a way of working themselves out.
Thanks for the Info Jim :TU:

 

Here is the photo of the converter clearing the weight on the SFI flexplate

 

I'm still working on this, here's the update...
I received the -6an socketless fittings for the cooler and the Aeroquip socketless hose today for the trans lines. Larry's thread helped alot with these parts.
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?299758-Transmission-Cooler-Recommendation
I'm going to leave the line ends open/caped until I figure out what trans cooler will fit and where.
this box of parts was confiscated by my wife and being wrapped and stored under the x-mas tree.:shock:
I did forget to buy 1" heat shield for the line area that run over the headers. new summit list started.

I ordered the shiftworks kit for the 4L80e today.
Use your factory-installed automatic floor shifter with a newer 3-speed (TH350, TH400) or 4-speed (TH700-R-4, TH200-4R or 4L60) Transmission. The conversion includes a new laser cut and hardened detent for proper stops and gear selection, a new matching transmission shift lever, cable pan bracket, new cable, all necessary hardware, and instructions. This conversion eliminates the rod linkage.
http://www.shiftworks.com/buick.htm
I hope this all works out...
pics after christmas.

 

I finally got back into the garage today.
I installed the shiftworks conversion kit at the trans end. it's a nice set up.
even comes with a repop shift id glass with the OD printed.
Also installed the fittings for -6AN trans lines and installed the Aeroquip socketless fittings and hose.
I'm going to need 90 degree fittings on this. wasn't thinking about the body going on.ou:
Moving forward.

 

You have the older style 4L80, I would be surprised that you need a 90 angle to make up space. The line location is very close to the TH400. For mine, the newer style 4L80, I did need to make a 90 fitting for the rear cooling line. Thankfully no trans tunnel modification were needed in my Riviera. Are you sure you need 90s?

 

Hi Chad,
No, not 100 percent sure on the 90's. Looking at it as is, A 90 degree bend out of the trans. At a 45 degree angle down and back would sweep the lines cleaner around. I would hate to have the body coming down and need the fittings . precaution???

 

Ah. 45s might be good. :TU: Also, if you open to ideas you could secure the hoses to body underneath the AC box (assuming you have AC). This would put the lines in an arc around that collector as well as further restrict movement where the hoses pass through the frame.