Got the new motor running today, been a project over some years. A lot of screw ups from the guy I got it from, had to have a new crank made and ended up doing final machine work myself because of inexperienced machine shops over here. A lot of hours of reading about all you experienced guys recommendations and lots of phone calls to my teacher/mentor Gary Paine - without him and his knowledge I would have screwed up. I have been building several hot street motors but this is different and time will tell if I have made the right decisions and my measurements are correct, LOL. If I could go 4 years back I would start over with a Tomahawk instead. Now we just need some open borders so we can go to Sweden and see if I can run with the Big guys in the 10.5” Outlaw class.
My pocket aint deep enough for going turbo and dont want to mess with all those sensors and electronic stuff. I am a NA guy but are forced to use a power adder now for trying to run the class I wanna run. This season will tell if my little 494 can run with the 555,598,632’s the others in the class run.
13-1 comp, stg2 that flows upper 370’s, GRP rods, custom solid roller around 700 lift, Jesel rockers, all tricks done to block with girdles, ported Wildcat intake, right now it has a Precision 1050 Dom but I have a 1150 ready, SRE pan, Peterson oil pump, GZ vacuum pump, custom Lemons headers. If I could go 3 years back I would have had a Velasco crank done for it instead of stock.
Super car, Jan. You did a great job. I have a question about your engine: With such a high compression ratio, how do you prevent dieseling (after-run) when you shut off the motor? (Asking for a friend...well not really, I am asking for myself, because my engine has this problem big-time)
I have not tried it yet so maybe someone can chime in? The old motor I ran 12.8-1 and never had a problem.
That has nothing to do with run on ...you have a hot spot somewhere in the chamber ..too hot plug or sharp edge glowing hot giving it an alternative IGN source ..
Thanks for the suggestions. This engine has always had this problem for as long as I've owned it, both before and after I rebuilt it. I was told it had a 13:1 compression ratio (haven't done the math on myself to verify) but I have tried hotter and colder plugs, different carburetors, and no change. Once it's warmed up and you turn the key off, it will keep running forever or until it runs out of gas, just on the heat and high compression as you said---like a diesel engine can do. The only way I have ever been able to stop it is to put it in 1st gear, put a foot on the brakes, and release the clutch. If it had an auto trans, it would just keep running I guess.
How high is the idle ? Can try bringing the rpm down with the clutch in gear to around 6-700 rpm and click the key off until you figure it out ..also check for a vacuum leak and or lean condition