Hey Guy, Thought I would ask before I dig into this project. What is involved in taking out my Gas tank on my 70 sportwagon? I see a strap holding it up. Do I simpley unhook this and it drops down? I know it just cant be that easy, it never is. Any advice would be appriciated. Dennis
Dennis, On the 68 Sportwagon, there is a metal shield between the gas tank and the tire held on by a couple of sheet metal screws. remove that and again on the 68, there is a strap that is horizontal with the ground half way up the tank, remove that. Then support the tank and remove the strap that runs under the tank. When lowering the tank, disconnect the wire to the sending unit. Hope this helps
Just took mine of my 71. Ther are two straps and undue the ground wire, remove the splash shield like bill said and remove the tire and wheel,
sump Thanks guys, I guess now I need to decide if I am going to sump the tank or try and plumb in a 1/2" line from the top. Any advice? I am just trying to get more fuel to my stage 2 headed motor. I am just running the stock 350 lines, acutally It runs quite well 12.4 @ 104 with 3:31 rear. Im sure she is starving on the high end and dont want to have a melt down. Dennis
We put a fitting for the 1/2 " line at the rear of the tank . We ran the line from the pump (behind the licence plate) across the bottom of the bumper and a 90 into the back edge of the tank. Never had any problem with this setup running 2 gallon of fuel. I put a gallon in after every run, not too good on gas mileage, 1/4 mile to the gallon !
1/2 line Bill, Thanks for this info, I have thought about doing this. I could most likely do this without removing the tank. How did you manage to drill the tank with out a Ka Boom!. Im sure the way to do it is to fill it with water? By the way how did you get that wagon to run so fast!... Dennis
Dennis, My son used a hole saw the size of the fitting. The tank was out, cleaned and washed very good. With the long wire type retrievers, he slipped the nut in the thru the filler and tighten the fitting end from the outside using sealer. One of my goals this year is to install a fuel cell for safety. If I would hit the wall with the left rear, there is nothing to protect the tank. It took 2 years to get the correct combo with the last engine, I wasn't doing a good burnout, the converter was too tight, then the tire diameter was too small. Now I'll start over with more of an idea of what I need to correct.My plan is larger diameter rear tires (29.5" up to 31"), maybe converter freshen, carbwork and weight reduction
tank Well, Im am leary of cutting on the is thing myself evern after cleaning it. Their is a place here that works on Tanks all the time, I will take it to them. What converter and gears to you run? How much does the wagon weigh? Want to sell it? ha ha.. Dennis
Dennis The converter is a 8" Dynamic , 4000 stall, the rear is 12 bolt with4.10 gears with Moroso spool and axles, and the weight is 3550 lbs with me (180 lbs) in it. As for selling it , I had thought about that before I spent $4500 just in parts (no assembly) for the short block!!!!!! Its funny that most people don't take a second look at the wagon when it comes out of the trailor until I would make a low 10 second pass. Anyway, I hope to have the new engine back by June and another 200 to 300 lbs off the car. Sorry I don't have any pictures, but a picture is in the TA catalog on page 28. Good luck and keep us posted .
pics Send me some pictures of that Bad Boy! dennis@composite-tech.com I am shooting for getting mine to nibble at a 11's. Plenty of snort 464 stg. 2, 11:1, build by Jim Berek. I should really drop down some gear from my 3.31's but like driving on the street too much. Any tricks to getting your weight down? Dennis
