fuel setup?

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by john hixon, Jun 4, 2002.

  1. john hixon

    john hixon Well-Known Member

    I'm planning on replacing my tank with one that is sumped.

    I believe the sumped tank I purchased is a 72 or so... --lotsa hoses. Maybe emission related?

    Looking from the "sender" side, I have two hoses on the left, the two sender connections, and two hoses on the right.

    Is it possible to use both the sender for the fuel gauge and use the sump lines for fueling?

    Assuming it's being set up for race, do I bypass the sender all together and block off all additional lines with maybe exception to one for breathing?

    The HP combo should be in the 600+ range. Does anyone have a combo they're willing to share (line sizes, type of pump, flow #s, fittings, etc)??

    Thx!
     
  2. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    You said 600+ but is that all you ever plan on making? Nitrous? Is there a bigger motor in the future. You don't need a real big fuel system for just over 600 but you don't want to have to change all your fittings and lines later if you want to upgrade. Make sure to run a good high flowing fuel filter before your pump. If you run the filter after your pump you risk getting trash in your pump that can lock it up and/or damage the vane pump surface. Keep one of the vent lines in the front upper corners of the tank open for breathing and plug the rest of the factory lines mainly the two coming out of the sending unit.
    On my old motor with 535hp and a 125 HP shot of juice I ran a Paxton 300 fuel pump with #10 line from the tank through a #10 in and out bullet Paxton filter and into the pump w/#10 line and then ran #8 line from the pump to a 6 port Paxton regulator. ***Note - Paxton fuel system components have been bought out by Aeromotive. When mounting the pump and filter try to keep it as low and as much behind the fuel tank as possible. Next to the tank off the frame rail would be ok.
    Around 650hp run #8 line from the tank - filter - pump - regulator then #6 out of the regulator to the carb. Pumps - Barry Grant pumps 220 or 280 series pumps, Holley 160 or 250 gph VOLUMAX, or Aeromotive A1000, Mallory 250 or Magna Flow Quick Star 275. Any billet or high flow filter that you can run a #8 in and out.
    Regulators - Barry Grant 2-port plus, Magna Flow 2 port, or any good billet aluminum regulator.
    700 hp and up. Pumps - Barry Grant 280 series and up, Aeromotive A2000, Magna Flow Quick Star 300, Holley 350 gph.
    Run #10 line tank - filter - pump - regulator then #6 to the carb. You car also run a #8 from the pump to the regulator instead of #10 and still be ok but keep #10 up to the pump. A #10 all the way if using Nitrous. Or just run a seperate system.
    Regulators - Previous 650 hp regulator set up will also work at this stage. Unless Nitrous is used.
    Filters- Large High flow billet with #10 fittings in and out. Aeromotive, Holley, and Barry Grant all make a high flow to fit this application.
    Some of these pumps have a bypass and need a line going back to the tank so keep that in mind when pricing since you'll have to buy line and fittings to go back to the tank. The external bypass helps to keep your pump running cool and on some allow pump pressure adjustability which can be very helpful in some situations.



    FLYIN' oN tHE JUICE!!!:stmad: :stmad: :stmad:
     
  3. john hixon

    john hixon Well-Known Member

    Thanks for sharing your experiences! The sump has fittings for two lines. The combo I have now is "Just to get started..." so I figure more horses sometime in the future (it's a money thing).

    Any downsides to setting it up large? (a2000 & #10?). What mod's should I consider if I still want an occasional cruise night romp? I'd guess the higher flow pumps aren't made to be on for an extended amount of time.

    I'm a newbie. I managed to get my 87 hairdryer to run 11.8's and this big block project is my "jumping in with both feet" attempt to running with the big dogs.

    Nitrous sounds interesting. Is a TA girdle recommended for the bottom end? Does the Poston Pan help any?? :Brow:
     
  4. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    The A2000 has an adjustable regulator at the pump and has a bypass. You can set the pressure at the pump so you wont have to run it harder than it needs to. The A2000 is the same as my old Paxton 300 and I had over 1500 miles on that pump driving it to and from the track and cruising on Sat nights without any problems. I've gone to a barry grant 500 to feed my high demands on fuel but I had used my 300 at first. I just felt safer going to the BIG Barry Grant.
    I'd stay away from the girdled Poston pan since it has bad oil drain back problems. You need to modify the pan to get the oil back to the bottom of the pan. They my have fixed that problem by now but I'm not sure. I'd recommend putting a girdle on the bottom end if you plan on pushing it hard in the near future. I didn' run one at first but I had an unrebuilt short block with hyperutectics and new bearing and ARP rod bolts. I didn't have alot to lose if I chucked the crank on the ground. I made about 525 hp on motor and sprayed a 125 and even a 175 Hp shot and had no problems. I ran stock Fel Pro head gasket too.
    Look at my 464 build up I posted and you'll get an idea of what I'm running.



    FLYIN' oN tHE JUICE!!!:stmad: :stmad: :stmad:
     
  5. john hixon

    john hixon Well-Known Member

    getting closer

    Can I run the return line back to one of the two fittings on the sump? I don't have AN provisions anywhere else (Someone suggested the return line run somewhere near top front of tank) In other words one of the sump fittings would be supply and one return.

    What's the pros and cons from running a return line from a pump with bypass vs. a regulator with bypass?

    Can a high HP motor be run without a bypass/return line??

    Thanks!

    John
     

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