1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

fuel pressure

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by jmccart, Sep 9, 2003.

  1. jmccart

    jmccart John McCarthy

    My car feels like it has a 2 barrell smoetimes. When I floor it, it stumbles for 1/2 a second then starts to go. Does this sound like a fuel pressure porblem?
    Thanx.
     
  2. grant455gs

    grant455gs Well-Known Member

    First of all, what kind of carb?

    Sounds to me like a lean condition caused by huge hole in the fuel curve. check accel. pump(s), power valve. These are two circuits that provide "extra" fuel to fill that huge hole that happens when you snap the throttle open.

    So no, I don't think initial bog has anything to do with fuel pressure. There is more than enough fuel in the bowl(s) for initial launch.

    If you answer the first question, I'll try to help if I can:Do No:

    HTH

    Jeff
     
  3. jmccart

    jmccart John McCarthy

    hello

    Actually, when I floor it off the line it does not do it, it is when I am cruising along and floor it. It kind of falls on it's face for 1/2 a second, like it is thinking of stalling. The carb is a 800 q-jet that I rebuilt a couple months ago. How do you you adjust the valve and pumps? Do I only need to take off the top of the carb?
    Thanx so much for your help.
     
  4. grant455gs

    grant455gs Well-Known Member

    Hi,

    You should put a first name in your sign. block..

    Not a Q-Jet guru by any means, but I'll try. Have you checked the float level?

    Jeff
     
  5. jmccart

    jmccart John McCarthy

    Hello

    It is a new float, and it floats at the top.
    John McCarthy
    Thanx.
     
  6. grant455gs

    grant455gs Well-Known Member

    Hi John, nice to meet you!

    There are different float measurement settings depending on your model and year. Did you set yours accordingly?

    It kinda sounds like your secondary air valve is opening to fast. Did you know there is an adjustment screw up under the pass. side? You have to have a SHORT screwdriver to get to it, or take the carb off and turn upsidedown to get to it. Very sensitive to adjustments.

    MTH

    Jeff
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    John,
    Two things to check on a Q-jet. First is the air valve spring adjustment. The air valves are on top at the rear. With the motor off, tip them in with your finger, then let go, and they should immediately close. As long as they snap back the adjustment may be OK. Second thing is the choke vacuum break on the passenger side front of the carb. It is designed to slow the opening rate of the air valves. Start the car, and let it idle. Try to tip in the air valves. You should not be able to. The choke vacuum break should hold them solidly closed. If you can tip them in, the vacuum break is leaking and is allowing the air valves to flop in when you nail it, giving you the dreaded bogggggg.
     
  8. jmccart

    jmccart John McCarthy

    hello

    The choke hardware is all gone. I think the adjustment for the upper 2 flaps is correct. I have played with them before. I will check again. I don't know anything about float adjustments. How should I check float level?
    Thanx for the help guys?
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If the choke vacuum break is gone, you will have a giant bog. The airvalves need to tip in not flop in. The vacuum break slows the airvalve action down. Do you know what I'm referring to as the vacuum break??
     
  10. jmccart

    jmccart John McCarthy

    hello

    No, I don't know what the vacuum break is. Are you saying that with out the top flap (are the upper flaps called valves?) over the primaries I will have a bog? Thanks so much for your help.
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    John,
    Here is a picture of a quadrajet carb. On the passenger side of the carb is a white diaphram that is hooked to the carb with a piece of vacuum tubing. It serves two purposes. One, it opens the choke a set amount after starting a cold engine, and two(more importantly) it has a metal link to the airvalves at the rear of the carb. The airvalves are the two plates on top at the secondary section of the carb. With the engine off, you should be able to push them in with your finger, and they should return to the closed position when you remove pressure on them. With the engine running, vacuum should pull the diaphram link in, and hold the airvalves closed. You should not be able to push the air valves in when the engine is running. If you can, then look at the vacuum break, and see if it is pulling its link in. If it is missing or defective, your secondarys will not come on smoothly and the engine will bog. Hope that explains it.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. jmccart

    jmccart John McCarthy

    Hello

    AAAAH! Now I see what you are saying. I am going to check it out. Mucho thanx for your help.
     

Share This Page