frozen Carter AFB

Discussion in 'Carter' started by riv2x4, Mar 17, 2006.

  1. riv2x4

    riv2x4 Well-Known Member

    Does anybody have any suggestions for freeing up a frozen Carter? I sprayed it with PB Blaster several times but so far the shafts are still frozen. Any suggestions?

  2. carbking

    carbking carburetion specialist

    Remove everything you can from the throttle body, especially the plastic choke cover. Place the throttle body in an old oven (not the oven used by your significant other :error: ) and heat the throttle body as hot as you can get it (up to 600 degrees F.). Allow the throttle body to cool naturally (don't douse it with water). After the throttle body has cooled, place in a ziplock bag, and place the bagged throttle body in your freezer overnight. The next morning, use the penetrating oil while the throttle body is still cold.

    This method works 80 percent of the time. There are more drastic methods as well.

  3. riv2x4

    riv2x4 Well-Known Member


    Thanks for the reply but I don't have as spare oven. Whats more drastic?

  4. carbking

    carbking carburetion specialist

    "More drastic" requires (or should anyway) some practice on a unit you don't plan to use (sometimes things go wrong).

    Acquire a 5 gallon bucket. Place a piece of foam rubber about 2 inches thick in the bottom. Fill the bucket 3/4 full with water. Hold the carburetor by the flange with a suitable clamp. Using an acetylene torch, heat the areas where the throttle shafts go through the throttle body. CAUTION: ALUMINUM GIVES NO WARNING BEFORE IT "SLUMPS". IF YOU OVERHEAT, YOU HAVE RELEGATED THIS UNIT TO A "PRACTICE" UNIT! Periodically, dip the throttle body in the 5 gallon bucket of water. Do not allow the flame from the torch to touch the throttle plates, as the primaries will melt quickly.

    You can acquire a toaster over at any of the discount stores for very little.

  5. riv2x4

    riv2x4 Well-Known Member

    Thanks, but I am talking about dual quad carbs and I would hate to accidently turn one into a practice model. I've heard soaking them in kerosene works but haven't tried that one yet.

  6. carbking

    carbking carburetion specialist

    The problem is corrosion. The classic definition of a battery is "two dissimiliar metals in the presence of a liquid". In a battery, there is ion flow, creating oxidation. I am sure some chemist can explain it better. However, the oxide between the throttle body and the throttle shaft takes up space, and wedges the two together, such that the throttle shaft cannot turn.

    Heat burns the oxygen from the corrosion molecules, thus reducing the space required, and allowing for a liquid (penetrating oil) to penetrate. Generally, once the corrosion reaches a certain point, soaking in anything is a waste of time.

    The kerosene should not make matters worse, try it.

    My suggestion at this point might be to have the carbs professionally redone (not blowing my own horn, we are currently at 3 years, and not accepting customer work).

  7. riv2x4

    riv2x4 Well-Known Member

    Thanks, Not sure what to try now that it appears that there is no easy low risk of permanent damage silver bullet available.

  8. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Larry and Jon...
    I picked up a pair of original DQ carbs last week, both of which had stuck throttle shafts. I soaked in carb cleaner, and then kero, for about a week, to no avial.
    I then used (some) of Jons advise, and heated them in an old oven (that I use for powdercoating) upto to about 450*, at which time the 'liquid wrench' penetrant I applied smoked so much, I had to take the carbys outside! I applied more penetrant, and a bit of
    'physical force' to the shafts. I repeated this twice, until finally, the shafts losened up.
    Next step is to glass bead everything, and replate the hardware with zinc/yellow chromate, and they should look better than new!
    Jon, should the hardware be silver zinc only, or have a bit of a yellow tint to it? BTW, I'm using Caswell Platings zinc plating, and their yellow chromate dye....
    And Jon, what is the best way to return the body castings to their correct sheen? ....I glass bead until they're clean, and then do a lower-pressure glass bead with a larger bead (60-80) to produce a nice, shiny metallic finish. Is there a better way? I hate to use any type of particle-blasting for fear of introducing harmfull contamintats, but what other processes work?
  9. carbking

    carbking carburetion specialist

    To get a really nice finish on the aluminum pieces, use a beading machine and either crushed walnut hulls or plastic media. Regardless of the media used, upon completing the blasting, blow everything clean with compressed air (WEAR GOGGLES!), and then wash in clean water.

    The electro-plate on the steel pieces is a long answer.

    Carter was located across the street from Howard Crown plating. Carter had a "corrosion resistant" specification for the plating. White zinc, yellow zinc, white cadmium, and yellow cadmium ALL met this specification.

    The steel pieces did not all come from the stamping shop the same day. One day might bring throttle arms, the next day secondary operating rods, etc.

    When the stamped pieces were delivered, they were shipped across the street to be plated which ever of the 4 finishes Crown was running that day! I actually have new old stock Carter AFB's with all 4 finishes on the various components. From my experience, I would guess that about 60 percent of the plating in the early 1960's was white zinc.

    So you can take your choice, and be correct.

    Using force on the shafts is not usually a good idea (although it worked in this case), as the shafts will distort, thus the plates will open at different rates. If this happens, one goes to the local machine shop and has new shafts machined.

  10. Electrajim

    Electrajim Just another Jim

    Soak it in Berrymans chem dip? ....;anyone.....anyone?

    It smells like a machine shop, comes in a gallon bucket and with a dip basket, you can get it at A.Z., it is meant to clean carb parts.
    Word of caution :Smarty:
    MIGHT destroy plastic, you'll smell it for days, and it will make your hand tingle if you get it on you.
    Naaaaasty stuff

  11. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    Heat source

    I would think that an electric heat gun would be safer than any torch. :Brow:

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