What are the advantages to upgrading to tubular A arms other than the cool factor? Will they help the handling much? I dont want to drop the car down any, the ride height is perfect right now. Can I still use the stock spindles and springs? Whats the best company out there producing these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/64-6...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SET-...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318 Seems like a good deal to me
Well, it looks like, for another $150, you can get the whole tubular set-up compared to the brand new lowers. I can't comment on the quality of the parts, since there's no name brand listed, so I guess you'll be rolling the dice there. If they were selling Global West stuff for those prices, I'd be ordering a set for my 67. Very good prices, especiallt for the rear disc brake setups for the A-bodies. -Josh
Couple of guys on the Chevelle board had issues with those cheapy Ebay ones. I have a whole front tubular setup about to go on my car from CPP. Nicley made products
Chevelle A arms are the same arent they? 64-72 should bolt right on as long as I get the same style bushing (round or oval), right?
Unless someone tells me these are junk, an the seller tells me they are not made in use, than I am getting these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SET-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
It's funny. With all the debate over foreign made parts being junk, you have a company like Southwest Speed who claims to be a manufacturer on their website, but they don't post US MADE all over the place. And the seller of these A-Arms isn't saying it either! Let us know what you find out. I first heard of Southwest Speed a couple years ago while looking for a centerlink for my '67 Skylark. Supposedly they make them because they have been discontinued by Moog/TRW.
From the email I received from Southwest Speed. "Cullen,The Chevelle lower a-arms are manufactured here in Arkansas." I went directly to their website, and they are ten bucks cheaper. Seems like a good deal to me. Sold!
the tubular arms are lighter and better looking than the orig ones. unless you plan on racing or showing the car i would just clean and paint the orig ones and use the money on something else. jim
Check out www.scandc.com They are really well priced for what you are getting. They are a board sponsor for www.pro-touring.com and many of the users have run their setups. Much of the feedback there will tell you that you won't get much advantage of just going to tubular uppers if you don't also utilize the tall ball joint in the upper. Otherwise just getting the weight change. If you only switch to lower tubulars without going tubular up top, I am not sure what you gain. Don't just by tubular to buy tubular. You may end up spending money to say you have tubular. Check out www.pro-touring.com and www.lateral-g.net and get the feedback before you buy. There are tons of stories of guys who bought and ultimately scrapped and bought the right thing the second time. Just my $.02, disregard if you like, but I have been researching the front suspension rebuild for my 67 gs and had the same dilemnas. Tom
If it were as easy as pulling the car in the garage, taking it apart, cleaning painting, new bushings and putting it back together- I would go that route. BUT I live in an apartment and the closest thing I have to a garage is the carport I park under every night. This isn't my DD thank god, but it does propose a problem when it comes to doing "serious" work. Lots of thinking has brought me to the conclusion of it being cheapest/easiest to accumulate the parts, clean-paint-new bushing-balljoints, and then take the car and all the parts to a shop to have it installed. I have a set of uppers coming from a board member that will have new balljoints and bushings in them already and will be sandblasted. I need to either buy a new set of lowers, or get a used set from another board member so I can have them freshened up. For $200 I can have a set of brand new lowers (no balljoints or bushings) shipped to me, so I think I am going to go that route. I'll order some new bushings and balljoints for them and have them installed, and then I'll take all the parts to get put on at once.
Hey Cullen, I saw you were looking for a front sway bar. You can usually still find '70s F-bodies in the yards and some will have the 1.25" front bar. It is a direct bolt in for your car. Just buy new rubber bushings from your local parts supply and you are all set. I think my whole swap was around $20! Took a couple of hours to clean, paint and install it. Good luck, Brian
I didn't get quite that good of a deal, but I have a brand new one, with brand new bushings shipped to me for $75. Im working on pieces some new control arms together... Also saving up for a hotchkiss steerking linkage kit.
Do some spy work at local storage places on the weekends. Around here there are a few who don't push the rules and folks work out of their storage shed like a garage. There are always plug sockets ever so often outside and inside you get a plug adapter for the lightbulb socket. Them places always have great wiring that can take load.
I have almost no tools either though. And I ALWAYS have trouble getting the spindles attached to the upper a arm, I can never get the spring settled right and I always have to my uncle or someone help with a jack get the load just right... Id love to dig into it myself and save some cash but it's almost worth it to hand it off to someone who can do it faster, better
