Made these plates today to try and hold down the 600+ lb Tq the new engine is making. Even with a quick blip of the throttle while in park made a really noticeable lift on the L side of the engine. This should hold her nice and tight.
Run similar setup just less being? We're you the gbody with fender exits? Someone posted it on fb yesterdat
Nice Briz, Make sure you also bolt the trans crossmember to the frame or you might kill the trans due to side to side twisting. We used one 3/8 bolt on each side. Nothing fancy.
NOt sure what you mean. The cross member is solid mounted on each side by 2 bolts. Id think the weak spot back there would be the rubber mount.
Keep the rubber mount for it's ability to flex a bit, so the trans case doesn't try to flex and crack.
I would consider doing something at the rear of the heads or bell housing too. One bolt on each side and corner of the diamond plate seems light duty
Its 1/4" thick. Over all a pretty stiff piece of metal. Unfortunately there is nothing in the rear to bolt to. Thinking this will work just fine.
Im thinking the car was a factory V8. Not really sure as it was a roller when I got it. I do know it was factory 4 speed as the clutch peddle is still hanging. I can see the factory rally stripes under the cheap black paint job. The last 455 had factory stock 73 heads. There was little problem bolting the 1 7/8" A body headers in the correct location. The new engine has very early S3 track eliminator heads. there taller and wider + pretty sure the exhaust flanges are at less of an angle than stock. Bought a nice set of S2 headers with 2 1/8 tubes for the build but theres no way they would go where they needed to.
Bummer on the headers not fitting. I bet almost everybody here has a new set of headers laying around, that would take way too much effort to fit. I have a set of KB 2in to 3in collector puls divider headers that I bought 13 yrs ago . Up in the rafters with the rest .
Plates at the rear of the block reduce some of the block twist. Weaker blocks yet, like olds 455, live longer at higher power levels using front and mid plates together.
If it lives long enough to get a refresh after a season or 2 I'll probably go that route or if for some unforeseen reason I need to rebuild the trans or converter. Dont wanna pull it apart until Ive had some fun.
Sometimes the worry is that too much flex in the block and/or crank could self clearance the mains or worse. You might not go as far between freshenings. (Not wanting to get into BBB flexing theories here, just pertaining to the comments on engine mounting and vehicles with this level of torque output)
With the exaghust out of the way should be plenty of room for some kind of mid plate , at least using the bolts between the dowls of trans. If your above 600 hp I think it's an easy decision. One I would luv to be in the position to make, that much hp and torque under ur foot is better than sex....!
