Per prior posts (now lost), I called Viking Paints regarding their black epoxy paints..... But my notes differ from what they recommended....Do I want the #70 Gloss black, or the #900 Satin/Flat Black? I will be getting both the gloss and flat/satin catalysts..... I was quoted $39.99 per gallon for paint base or catalyst.... It had been posted to use the following mix ratios: 1:1 gloss black base to flat catalyst ....for frame 1:0.75:0.25 gloss black base to flat cat to gloss cat .....for semi gloss on susp components. Do I have the correct info? Thanks!
Hey, Walt....you may want to give Jim a call at the shop if you need a quick answer. He's really working hard on completing a few different cars/engines, etc, so I doubt that he's able to spend much time on the board this month.
Hey Walt- Did you get an answer on this??? Pretty soon I'll be doing some painting and want to get it right. Any painting tips for this material? Also, can someone post a breakdown of components by finish? Frame Upper/Lower control arms Rear end firewall floor pans etc Thanks!
Ken, I though I including mixing suggestions with the product, but maybe I forgot.. anyway.. Frame- 900 and Flat catylist control arms, rear end and all the sheetmetal.. (everything, including core support, inner fenders, firewall, floors ect.. I like to go with about a 15% mixture of the gloss catylist, replacing the flat.. My actual proceedure is 4 oz black, 2 tablespoons gloss catalyst, and then use the flat to fill to your 1-1 paint/catalyst ratio. Let that mixture sit for a miniumum of 30 minutes, and then thin to a sprayable consistancy with virgin lacquer thinner.. try just about an ounce or two of thinner to begin with, you can always add more. Don't get it too thin as it will affect your coverage ability. Here, with my digital Sata gun, I spray the primer/catalyst at 14 psi at the gun, and then the black at about 18.. but that will depend on what your spraying it with. I apply one full wet coat of the primer, let it flash, and then apply 2 wet coats of the paint, with about 10 minutes of flash time between coats. Spray at the right pressure, with the gun about 12-15" from the surface, and overspray is vitually non-existant. A very good product to apply in your garage, but you should of course protect your painted surfaces from hitting them with the gun, if your not going to re-paint the car. I see they are offering a semi-gloss catalyst now, I have not used it yet. With your project, I would suggest blasting the frame and related chassis components, the core support and inner fenders, and then I would clean the underside of the body and firewall well, and then scuff it with red scotchbright, followed by a a wipe down with wax/grease remover. Blasting the underside of the body is a big job, and requires extensive clean up, unless your just working with bare shell that your going to repaint. Blasting the firewall and floor pans, removing all the factory seam sealer and replacing with new, is of course the best way to do it, but I am not sure how far down this "slippery slope" of restoration your going to go. of course.. your gettin' there... :grin: ou: The finished results will be worth the effort.. regardless of how long it takes. Have fun, and give me a ring if you have any questions. JW
Thanks very much Jim, I appreciate you taking the time to write that out! I do plan to have the frame and assorted suspension conponents blasted along with the inner fenders and the core support. I am undecided on what I will do with the body, but I am constantly sliding on the resto slippery slope. It's awful icy this time of year!! :eek2: My original plan was to just clean up the underside as you mentioned and paint. Obviously, a paint job is not far off for the whole car, so I'll probably have a word with my body man before I decide. Thanks, as always, for your advice! :TU:
