Hi V8 Buick Community, Ok, so I have the Fr Drum w/o any booster. It takes some getting used to, but remarkably there is "no" chudder in the brakes. I am surprised there is no pull, or anything, just takes a "*&^$" load of preplanning and foot pressure to slow 'er down. I just plan on Sunday driving 'er and the off day take to work on Friday. Is the Fr Disk w/ Booster, a night and day difference, or would a Booster due ??? Many Thanks in Advance !!! Michael C Roseville, CA
I've got a 65 flatroof wagon that I did front pwr discs on a few years ago. I remember when I did it, being amazed at how much more fun the car was to drive - having "normal" brakes (not having to premeditate my stops by a block!). I recently purchased a 67 malibu with all drums.... Back to driving a car that makes you nervous at the slightest hint you might have to stop. I've been collecting all the stuff to convert this one already, this time I'm going discs on all four, mainly for looks and ease of maintenance in the back. If you go to the chevelle site the have a pretty good how-to on doing 4-wheel discs with mostly parts store components. Here's a basic list of the major parts; "stock" parts... 68/72 a-body booster 1979 corvette master 68/72 a-body front calipers, 11"rotors, caliper brackets 1980 trans am rear 11"rotors 79/85 seville rear calipers "custom" parts.. stock drum spindles(easy minor mod) stock drum front to rear distribution w/ summit adj. prop valve inline to rear "steeltech" rear caliper brackets
The 67 Sportwagon has four wheel power disc brakes from SSBC and they are very effective. You will most likely enjoy the change.
personally, I found drums were able to stop mine in panic mode just as well as disc at lower speeds) however. this is when they were cold and minimal speeds. however brake fade SUCKED bad with the drums. also they would randomly pull different directions and intermittently (sometimes no pull sometimes left sometimes right) when hot or cold. Go disc and never go back. IMHO. try to find factory parts. if you go after market please please please check your balljoints taper to the taper inside the spindle there have been some quality control issues with that portion of the after market spindles and ball joints. the booster will help a bit too, but not as much as you'd think as it changes the mechanical advantage of the brake linkage. nate
It's night and day. You will never go back. I have had a few cars with drum all around, and all I can say is you had to be ready to steer in any and all directions at once during hard braking. Fists clenched, forearms bulging, etc... Make sure you get the proper master cyl and proportioning valve for disc.
So which is the best value/setup, the Scarebird way, where you go to the Autoparts store and get a whole bunch of parts from various models ??? Or perhaps where the whole kit is provided w/ instructions and putting on new spindles ??? What, you don't like "white knuckle" braking ??? o No: Michael C Roseville, CA
The way I see it, both have advantages, and actually there is a third variation. Most of the kits seem to have everything you need, every nut bolt washer,etc. but their "offshore" quality has been questioned (metallurgy, ball joint taper, etc.) and their cost (475./525.for front) is reasonable. The standard scarebird setup is similar in cost, uses the stock spindle(no quality issues)but it's disadvantage is it uses a 10.5" rotor, but all the parts are obtained from recent cars, so future parts availability is not a problem. The other option that I chose was to assemble my "kit" from parts house pieces. My logic is that I get to use my stock "drum" spindles(same as scarebird) I get full size, 11" rotors, and parts that were engineered to work on these cars as factory on 68/72 cars. Also the cost for the front setup is dirt cheap(my favorite quality) Parts america; front rotor 5200rgs 86.00 pair calipers 36.00 caliper cores 50.00 booster 106.00 booster core 20.00 master 17.00 m/c core 5.00 pads 58.00 ceramic(your wheels will thank me) ebay prop valve 70.00 (give or take) caliper brackets(stock) 39.00 (you have to search) Total 487.00 Thats with 75.00 in cores that you might be able to scrounge for and no shipping on all the heavy stuff.
I have 2 kits from the right stuff. I have had nothing but good experience wit them. I think I just paid 670, soup to nuts. Including stainless lines and front stainless braided lines. I will post pics in a little bit.
The Scarebird kit is not worth the trouble. Nothing fits exactly right. Go with an entire setup or factory parts off a later model car. IMHO
My recollection is that drum brakes behave badly when wet. So if you drive through a water puddle, ride the brakes to dry them out. If you don't they will not stop the car. Your mileage may very, that is a 42 year old recollection. (I'm 60)
Anyone have any experience with a kit from PST? I am planning on doing all four this winter on the convertible.
Night & day comparison as others have stated. My '71 was manual drums when I bought it. First year added a brake booster, next year converted to discs up front.
I put the scarebird kit on mine, I had no fitment issues and i am able to keep the 14 inch front rims. I will be going to braided hoses though!
I have driven through a lot of puddles and I have never had my any noticeable difference in my brakes. Hmmmm One thing that's cool about drums is the shoes last a LONG time.:TU:
