I put it here rather than the rear forum hopefully I decided correctly. Found this rear available locally and wondering what you guys think. If this rear is indeed in good shape ( I haven't looked at it personally ) what would I have to do to make it fit my Regal? Is it too much work mod wise? I'm looking to upgrade my stock 7.5 rear and decent 8.5s are hard to come by in my area. He's asking $250 for it. -rob
Whether or not this is a good deal depends upon what you can do yourself and what you have to farm out. If it was me I would look at things like will it have to be shortned or is it the correct width? If it isn't then you will have to have it shortned as well as the axles. If your going to use upper/lower control arms like your Regal has then you or someone will have to weld the lugs on the rearend and they must have the correct angles. Other things like brakes and driveshaft yokes and new rear wheels must be taken into consideration as well. Also. because this is a 9" Ford does not mean that it has the desired (strength wise) type center section. I'm sure your aware that numerious companies sell pre-fabber 9" housings that are bolt in for a "G" body as well as 12 bolt ones. I guess what I'm saying is take into consideration whats required to make this rearend work in your Regal then decide if its a good buy or not. Good luck in your decision no matter what route you take. I happen to like the 8.5 GN type rearend swaps because they are so easy to swap over. Just my two cents worth.
Yep I was hoping to see if anyone here has actually taken such a rear end and made it work for our cars and what they had to do exactly and what everything cost. Its a shot in the dark I guess. I agree that the GN and turbo rears are easier because they are pretty much a direct bolt in. In my area they are scarce and the ones that are for sale are quite a bit of money with high miles so you'd be better off going new in the first place. Maybe the same with this Ford rear.
I used a lincoln Versailles factory rear disc brake rear end on mine It's 58" perfect width. I did all the fab work myself. I had a custom driveshaft made. I have about $750 into it. But again I did all the work myself set up the gears etc... Hope that helps? Brad
Rob Ditto Monkeyy's advice, It's a great price and you can make it work.If you are looking for a quick cheap rear it isn't in the long run. I don't know what you are doing with your car or how much power you are pushing, but that 7.5 will take a lot.
lilbowtie, Its a mild 455, not sure on power but its run the 1/4 mile in the high to mid 12s by the previous owner. I can post a video if you like. Its got the basically stock 7.5 rear now and he welded the spider gears so both wheels are powered. The car was gutted so its lighter than normal. I just want a rear that will hold up for when my right foot gets periodically heavy. I have always read mostly negative stuff about the 7.5 in regards to durability but also have heard of some guys having luck with them. Maybe my visions of a 9 inch were a little ambitious in light of what I will be doing with this car. -rob
You are getting on the edge of what it will handle, welding the spiders is not something I would recomend. That nine inch is a great buy if you are capable of the fab work but no matter which way you go its going to cost $$$. My advice would be spend the money-do it once-and do it right. You are always going to want to go faster.
I did mine last year, local guy has a jig and a tig welder, I have around 1500 into it, Nodular third member, 31 spline traction loc, currie 31 spline axles with 1/2 by 3 inch studs and disc brakes, welded on back brace, new driveshaft, new brake lines, and edelbrock upper control arms so i could adjust pinion angle, we had to make the upper housing mounts to weld on, and they are about 1.5 inches taller than stock. The 8.5 will be an easier and cheaper option, but if you start adding aftermarket parts the prices go up
i have a gn rear in the car still buy whole car for 900 no eng/ has 400 trans set up for 455 no doors or title- was to be race only so i never got title got a auburn posi too for extra 200 im in illinois but i might be in minn around may since i have stuff at trishield perf
Don Eggers did a Lincoln Versailles rear too. He did all the fab work himself and he's running 9.80's on it. He was getting a new aluminum third member with a spool for it to lighten it up. I'm not sure if he's put that in yet. He had been using a factory 70 Ford nodular case with the daytona pinion bearing with a detroit locker.
Hello, here's the one I'm considering: http://www.quickperformance.com/Products/housings.htm Seems like a pretty good deal. Then just get a used third member and the gear of your choice. Good luck, Jay.
heh, a while back i had extra cash, and spent it on a moser bolt in (along with some wheels, tires, interior, fuel cell, pump filter) all for the price of the moser bolt in with a mid three detroit locker, and disc brakes. but all in all, it wasn't cheap. i bought one for someone who had what i wanted, plus all that other stuff at the same price as what i needed was... not cheap though, but sweet! if you're going budget, don't call moser! i had the cash, now i want it back, but i wouldn't not spend it on a rear again. hmmm, i think i have some kind of sickness.
I have been there and done it. Would go with a 12 bolt if I was doing it again. Or maybe better still a GN 8.5 with all good stuff. I let my welder buddy talk me into using a 9" in my 83 Regal. It was going to be a mild bracket car for my daughter, but I wanted it to be bullet proof. So he did all the welding and his brother shorten the 31 spline axles. I though since the Fords were so strong I could get by with the stock big axles. Wrong! When I got the motor running good and the trans and convertor working and a new set of M/T Drag Radials on it, the very first pass it broke both axles before the tree. Then new axles and $500. later it is back together and going but it is very heavy and was a battle to get set up with the stock control arm mounting points and dialed in to go straight. Works ok now but spent more and got a heavy deal that robs more power than a 12 bolt. Live and learn. Sounds good to say I got a 9" but that's about all. JIm N.
CarCraft did a comparison test with a 12 bolt, 9" and a Dana 60. I think it was last month, or maybe two months ago. The 9" took the most power, but it wasn't a crazy amount. I think it might have been 6 hp. Out of the three the Dana 60 is the strongest, and isn't as heavy as led to believe.
