Also, keep in mind that if you shave that much off the deck surface of the heads, you will need to have to intake side of the heads machined a corresponding amount.
Good point, didnt think about that. Is this something a shop would already do when shaving the deck? Or should I bring it up next time I see him. How would this affect the intake mounting /matching up? Stock iron intake btw.
If your not looking to pull the front wheels or be on street outlaws BUDGET couldn't you just put in the bigger intake ss valve with ss exhaust valve hardened exhaust seats only and port and polish your self then have them bead blast the intake ports to ruff them that's the big expense its about 16 hours of labor for a set or so would have been 2 trips to shop though
Not looking for wheelies, or on a big budget. 16 hrs of labor?? Holy crap. At an avg of $90hr + parts I would be screwed.
Hi Matt, below was the actual project cost of the work my son and I did on the GS350 a year ago. The list contains some parts that you already have, and some work you may not require. Just pick through the list to get an idea of what your cost may add up to. Good luck with your build!! $240 machine service to pressure test the heads, clean and mill .060 $100 machine service to clean and mill intake manifold .040 $0 workbench porting and polishing (not including pizza, cigars and beer) $170 porting and polishing tools, mandrel, sanding rolls, cleaning supplies. Purchased mostly from TA, some local. $370 TA 212 camshaft and lifters and stage one springs $215 TA stock valves $370 TA head and intake gaskets, hoses, timing gears and chain, thermostat, sealer, oil, heat crossover plugs, adj. pushrod. and other wear items and fluids. $140 multiangle valve job $128 new bonze wall valve guides and install $152 hardened ex valve seats and install $60 plug emmission passages and heat crossovers $100 camshaft degree wheel kit $133 new length pushrods $2,178 Project Total
you will be fine if left stock , if the guy is any good he can increase flow with just clean up port. it would only be a few hours max. 2-3. you will be pretty good with just the .060 of head and good valve job. you will be happy with either outcome
Nice price list there, helps a lot, thanks! I definitely won't get everything you did but it gives me a nice idea of what im looking at. I'm shooting for pretty stock with a few minor upgrades. It all depends on where the money tells me to stop. Hopefully I get a call from the shop this week and see what he says I need and start playing with the number$ You guys are a huge help!
I'm doing a similar build for my daughter and gf to learn on. I'm going. 070 off heads and doing my own porting. 2000 stall and 3.90 gears. Stock manifolds. Slightly larger cam. Porting will be mostly in bowl area and contouring valve guide protrusion. Hoping for a hi 13 second car. I'm sure that's not what you are after but you can see the potential of what we are explaining to you and as you can see the difference in what you have verses what I have. But you actually will have similar power. Maybe 30 to 50 HP difference. Plenty of torque on both engine for how low compression is
I see the potential and its very exciting! This whole thread is inspiring and im excited to get this going. I'm sure I will enjoy whatever I get out of it as this is the first major thing I've dont to the motor. I'm second owner on it and finally have the chance to get some nice things done to it, paints done, TA exhaust is done, seats are done, assembling door panels as we speak, 1"drop springs just arrived yesterday, and my rear end is just about ready for a gear swap. I have a set of 3.42 here that should make a world of difference from the 2.56 I've been running since bought it in 95. Lots going on and excited as all hell
Consider putting a 2000-2200 convertor in it also. Will give a better feel of power when driving but low enough to not really hurt mileage
Assuming the intake hasn't been excessively shaved already, you would notice that the bolt holes on the intake manifold were too high to get a bolt into the head bolt holes. A good shop would shave to intake side so everything would line up correctly. Doesn't hurt to double check. Decking the block would also require some attention to those intake & head bolt holes lining up. Mock everything up and take a look. Obviously, the bolt holes aren't the only concern...the intake runners in the heads/intake could also be out of alignment. Regarding your transmission.....a 200-4r is a direct swap for a th350 tranny, with the exception of the crossmember holes. Better first gear, plus overdrive....and you could run a 2800 stall converter with a lockup.
2800 on a 212 cam is overkill especially with a 2004r. As far as intake bolts you might be OK. Every engine is different
Stopped by and talked to the machinist today, he had the heads disassembled and cleaned. Said they are good and that the exhaust guides were already cut to run seals. We talked about doing some cleanup and mild porting. He was cool with me purchasing whatever parts I needed from TA and bringing them in but mentioned he had a set of bigger exhaust valves he was willing to install if I wanted. Would larger exhaust valves benefit me? So far with the cleaning, mild porting, shaving, gasket matching, new guides, and new larger exhaust valves I'll be in about $400 plus my purchase of TA springs, head gasket set, and lifters for the cam.
So far that pretty good pricewise. I would not complain . sure the larger exhaust valves will help. What goes in has to come out. As long as price is good for valves I don't see any problems. Try to get a combustion chamber cc'd when he's done shaving to see what final compression will be
Do not use the gasket as a template to match the intake ports. The resulting bulge in the intake track really hurts the flow.
Scott, correct assumption, the intake hasn't been shaved at all. The 350 is running and untouched in my 68. These heads are a spare 69 set. Nothing has been done yet but cleaning. I was (am) kinda concerned about shaving the heads down a little bit. With my small budget would it be overkill for me? Besides taking .050-.060 off the heads it seems like it creates a list of other work that needs to happen to make things "match" I wonder if that would throw me up and beyond my $$ comfort zone. Am I over thinking it? I just dont want to get in too deep and not be able to afford to complete it.
You may or may not have intake issues since the block has not been shaved or milled. But best to have it taken off intake side of head. I think .060 puts it close but think it will make it.
The amount of milling isn't going to be that much. It's really not that big of deal. One could raise the opening to match with a grinder. That's a really good price for what's done, I get way more than that for it.
Adding compression is the first step to making power. Cut the block or the heads if you're not changing pistons. The intake will still fit and you can clean up the port mis match with a grinder. Now the bolts lining up may be the issue but they are a sloppy fit in the intake for this reason.
