Keep in mind, the motor has finally broke in, so I think there may be extra power hidden in there somewhere. I need to run it again with shorter tires. You guys are making me feel bad! I expected more power as it is, I think I need a better intake and shorter tires. By the way, the car weighed in at 3780 with a 1\2 tank and no driver. I weigh 215, so its sitting right at 4k. Thanks for all the helpful info though. I think we will get mid-13s with the right size drag radials. maybe better. with my 26" street tires, it is like a sling shot. :3gears:
Yeah, I have talked to Phil before, we have the exact same motor, but his has the bigger valves. only difference. The road block on my motor is the intake. Even with the smaller valves, it flows great.
Sorry I don't know your first name, Regarding the build in general, do you have paperwork as to how the compression ratio was calculated? I'm interested to know if any carb tuning was done while the engine was on the dyno, too. Devon
As for a tire recomendation. I'll tell you that I have275/60 15 BFG drag radials and mounted on a 7" wide rim the measure 27" tall. As a note here I would recomend an 8" wide rim for this tire, as it buldges out too much. With these tires I have gotten 60' times as low as 1.71, but not consistently, but will go 1.80 consistently. The Mickey Thompsons in the same size will work better. I normally run 28 10.5" ET drag on the car real 28" tall tire, and the car goes 107-108mph at apr 5100RPMs through the traps. 3.73 gears
the name is Jefferson. I do have all the notes, but I am not sure where they are. You can see the actual build on my website. Here is a link- http://billiehall.com/jefferson/articals/musclecaren/march06/musclecarenmarch06.pdf. Jim spent a couple of days tuning on the motor on the dyno, getting it to peak at 396 hp and 414 ft lbs. I really think there is a lot more power to be made with a single plane intake. The S-divider is strangling it. I have a ton of bottom end, so I am not worried about giving some torque up to get top end, especially considering the top end will likely peak right at 6k. I am thinking about 27 or 28" tall tires on 8-inch rims. I am looking at MT ET Street Radials. If I can get them soon, I will be able to go back before all the tracks close.
Jefferson, Are you running a BRF CODE 200 4r? Let me know, I have a thought or too maybe I need to give you a ring.
The BFR code 200R4 is the prefered version of that trans. due to extra strength and different shift governing. This is what you need:
Awesome advice, Sean...then you have before/after dyno numbers or track numbers on this intake, too? Something tells me it might not quite fit under his hood. Devon
I have no idea what the trans came from, I got it as a core from the trans shop that I had build it. There is about $2200 in the trans not including labor. It should pretty damn stout.
Yes, and it fits under the flat fiberglass hood in Marks car, with a blowthough bonet. The fiberglass hood gains a fair amount of extra space, although Mark can build a lower rise version of the intake as a custom option.
I was being facetious with my first comment, Sean, though it's possible a more conservative single plane intake might be in order. Devon
I know, you were being facetious.... I will dyno and track test my intake asap.... The fact remains Jefferson needs a singleplane intake if he wants to make power over 6000 rpms. Since he made one for himeself he is on track!
What was the shift points. Did you manually shift it or did you just drop it in drive and hit the go button.
Thanks Devon, overlooked the shift points. Only other problem was fuel for me. I am running a mechanizal pump and it works great for me (now that it has been replaced). I had a pretty good 60 fts for street tires but I would run out of gas when I went passed the 60 ft. I ran a high 13 on my motor with a bad fuel pump If I babied my my burnout and rolled out of the lights.
Unfortunately a shorter single plane intake to fit under the hood better would need shorter runners and that is not what you want on a street car. The longer runner will help out in the lower rpm range. Tire spinning is mostly just imaginary torque(not that you don't need some to get them going). What happens to the engine when good tires are installed and they bite off the line? That will actually tell you if you have good torque or a good combo down low. Right now that 350 is tuned for what amounts to low end and midrange not high rpm power(according to the dyno). It seems to be a combo that should make good power up top so the single plane looks like a good idea. BUT, I'd follow through on some sticky tires and another trip to the drags. Then when you have that good baseline you can make some decisions on what needs changed. Converter? Intake?
