New motor.. all your seeing there is the normal trash from piston ring break in. No bearing material, no aluminum (remember this is an all alumium engine), and most off all the oil is not "burnt". Taking the pan off is hysteria at it's best.. run it, if it's hurt, it will tell you, just keep an eye on the filter. JW
I understand why and have used the Peterson oil pump set up with the factory Buick block, however, I don’t know why you need such a pump on a tomahawk block that has priority, oiling, and other oiling upgrades. I would think a scavenger set up and a high volume oil pump gear should supply all the oil you need. It’s not like it’s a pro stock motor turning.10,500 RPM. it would certainly simplify things for your set up.
Cause I already own it, actually have 2. Bought for the last iron block build which I blew up despite lots of OP. My timing cover has been modified to work with that pump and I reused the cover on the T Hawk build. My oil pan was set up for the pump. Theres lots of reasons. Maybe I just wanna be different! ( weird) Chit... look at what I drive and what most of you own. Im cool with it!
Briz.., So have you determined or found out what actually was the problem? I've looked through the thread. Unless I've missed it? I'm about to start my Tomahawk build. So hope to be able to ask you a few questions..
It lost prime. That pump has an internal bypass and it stuck open. Happened once before on the first dyno run. I think the main issue is that I cannot mount that pump as designed in this car. When it was in the Regal the pump was mounted below the oil pump cavity where the filter would sit and was below the sump so always a supply of oil to draw from. In this car the steering rack is right there and no room for the pump which requires the intake to be above the pan rail making it harder to prime on start. I've made and installed a P Trap under which I hope helps the issue. If it keeps up my only solution will be to go back to internal oil pump with a remote filter. That will mean a pickup in the sump, modifying the pan and a new timing cover and remote filter
Very clever ides.. I'm not knowledgeable about the external pump. But I have my wife's starfire. So I know the lack of room. I guess theres a no back flow valve option, or any way to install a small sump higher? It seems like the pee trap should work. Very nice work.
Even if the bypass was stuck open, it shouldn't lose prime? It should still be pushing oil? I am having a hard time seeing how that could happen with the engine running? Although I have no idea what the pump setup looks like...
An inline check valve in the pickup line should solve this....gotta have one...i understand there's one in the pump..but apparently its fubarred....
We used the earls check valve back in the day. It self destructed. Luckily the parts stayed inside the casing and didn't end up in the motor. Never again. Sometimes you can route the lines to help with drain back. On our scavenger setup the feed line went up and over the crossmember and it always kept the pump primed by maintaining oil at the pump.
UPR has a different design....not much to fail that i see..vs the spring style like in the moroso and earls
I asked Peterson about the check valve idea and they said NO. Reasoning is its a restriction in the supply line. However a 16 AN line is pretty big
Well their approach isnt working and may cost you an engine....that pump will pull more than it can push i feel sure....-16? Damn why so big? ....im sorry i would just run a scavenger plate and a -10 pull line and be done....the purpose of having a Tomahawk is resolved oiling .....a stock setup should be adequate for all but the wildest stuff
Went out last night for another try. Made 2 passes. Last one being 9.40's @ 147mph. Ended up getting towed back to the pits as it seems to have lost ignition power.
