Wrapping my brain trying to figure out why the car is running rich. I rebuilt carb and starts right up and runs just fine but still smells obnoxious gas and even in oil. It’s got a factory fuel pump and new plugs and coil. Also sometimes it sputters when I shut it off. i’m leaning towards timing because I bought it from a friend who knows very little about cars. which that saying something for me. anyway he replaced the timing chain and no telling what else he did trying to get it to run. I hate messing with timing but that’s the last thing I haven’t done yet. So if I can get confirmation of the firing order and timing ill give it a shot TIA
Never mind I’m hearing that when dealing with an older engine a timing light is not much use? It makes sense. I guess my next question is where does the vacuum advance connect to? Currently there’s a steel line connected to an exhaust manifold which thing connects to my vacuum advance. that’s just how I found it. But there is no vacuum coming from there
That is the heat supply for the choke, not a vacuum source. You should have either a vacuum port on the intake that will provide "manifold vacuum", or a port on the carb that is "ported vacuum". Ported will provide a signal that is relative to throttle position, and manifold will provide a vacuum that is "always present/highest" when the car is idling, on cruise and off throttle. Most vacuum advance are connected to "ported" but some people prefer manifold source when the engine is not stock. Having a timing light is helpful in seeing where the vacuum advance is with various engine speed/demands and the differences each vacuum source will affect the vacuum advance. (I use manifold vacuum for my nailhead, and no vacuum advance on my '68. Both cars like the way they are set up better than using ported vacuum advance). Read Larry's "Power Timing" and ask questions until you understand timing, vacuum, and vacuum/mechanical advance. It really is not complicated, but it is complex variables and how they all interact. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/power-timing-your-buick-v8.63475/ If the carb is setup and working correctly, then tackling timing is much easier. A vacuum gauge (tool) and a dialback timing light are not terribly expensive. And not sure who told you that a timing light is not much use for older engines. It's a tool that provides a lot of information. Same for a vacuum gauge. If you smell gas in the oil, you need to change the oil, the loss of viscosity/breakdown of oil and create acidic state, and can result in damage to rings/cylinders, bearings, cam, lifters, timing chain/gears and rockers.
I was watching a YouTube video and The guy was saying after sometime your timing chain stretches and some other stuff and how the timing light is only useful for new engines. I don’t know I take everything with a grain of salt with no vacuum for the vacuum advance affect throttle response? I took it out for a test drive and it’s pretty weak on response. Also that heat signal thingy where does it go on the bottom of the choke? that’s the only place I see that there could be some thing there. Although it looks like it’s threaded I can take a picture when I get home
Doing a little reading in that thread you sent me. I guess it does affect throttle response. There is a vacuum line on the carburetor that is unused and I’ve been trying to Cap it off like an idiot lol
Well, he's sorta right, but mostly wrong. Yes, if you have no vacuum advance and your static timing is not set correctly (retarded) then you can have heat issues from the fuel/air mixture burning too late and heating the exhaust valve and ports, like a blow torch. Correctly firing leaves a cooler exhaust as the heat is translated to the pistons, combustion chamber and cylinder walls and removed to the coolant. And yes, it will also affect off idle being retarded without vacuum until mechanical comes on.
Timing is some thing that’s always scared me. But this is just a weekend ride . So I guess worst case scenario I mark where I started on the distributor and reverse if I mess up ? I’m going to buy a timing light . And work on getting that thing purring just right . I guess I assumed that it was timed right already just because it starts up almost instantaneously. I thought maybe it’s getting too much fuel but the carburetor doesn’t overflow. Very interesting stuff
A Chassis Service Manual is your best friend. Might post and see if anyone has one for sale. Here is basic specs. You can set the plug gap with feeler gauge, since most people don't have a dwell meter available. But they are easy to find on ebay.
So this tube is what runs to my exhaust manifold. I just don’t know how that connects to the choke. Or what the part is called so I can buy it.
It connects to the fitting on the bottom of the choke housing. You need a metal tube and fitting. You can get away with a compression union and a flared end with the correct fitting. GSFred or Cole may have the parts that you can use. You can also buy this kit. (I have purchased several items from "Best Offer Counts") https://bestoffercounts.com/product...5-carburetor-choke-stove-pipe-kit-to-manifold Or, you can replace the original choke with an electrical controlled unit. It replaces the black "cap" on the side of the choke housing on the carb, and is pretty simple to install. They typically work better than the old heat riser. The last option is a manual pull choke kit, that runs a push/pull knob under the dash and the other end is connected to the choke housing. That was used quite a bit 40 years ago. I usually used them, since my Harleys had the same thing, and I like "sameness" of some things.
