Looking good Kacper! I'll bet you can't wait to hear that baby run. Then the next problem probably will be to go and find a long and open enough road with no speed limits on it to wind it up!
OK I'm starting to see the light...the motor(before I took it apart) still ran strong and sounded great(near exhaust tips). I think I'm going go ahead and tear down the motor myself, pull it out and check out the pistons and everything. So I want to stick with the Nailhead - I really want to hammer out this project so Stay tuned because I will have many ???'s. Thanks for the help so far-Doc and Eriik you'll be hearing from me.
Thanks,i heard it b4 but now couple things has changed...timing is on marks As for the no speed limits road i dont need speed anymore(last ticket teached me somethin...I want to feel that torque:3gears:
The most important thing is to mark the connecting rods & caps for the cylinder they were removed from & to each other as there are NO identifying marks on them. You CANNOT mix them up!!!! Don't forget the cylinders are 1-3-5-7 right side. 2-4-6-8 left side. Just opposite of what everyone is used too. The mains are numbered with arrows pointing to the front. This is just the beginning. Don't understand something ASK!!!!!!!!
Just about ready to yank the engine- where is the best place to attach chain to motor for removal? Hope I didn,t take too much apart as I have taken off the driver side head and intake manifold. Will a typical engine stand work for the nailhead? I am a little alarmed that I haven'to No: found anything that looks broken yet, but I still have not seen the rings. How about the lifters and push rods- do they have to go back in the same holes?
Not sure about attachment points on a nailhead, but there should be a threaded hole at the end of the heads that should work. Make sure the bolt is at least 3/8 or so and that you engage several threads and you should be fine...oh, use washers to make sure the head of the bolt does not slip through the chain link. Lifters, yes put them back in the same place. Pushrods, no if they are all the same... but it would not hurt. If the pushrods are adjustable, then yes put them back in the same place. A nice car like that deserves a freshly rebuilt nailhead, go for it!
A typical engine stand works fine. If you're going to be re-using the cam, (not recommended) then the pushrods and lifter should be numbered, and the rocker assemblies have to go back on the side they came off on. From the looks of your pictures that cam was pretty much shot, so I'd get a new one with new lifters and pushrods. Chances are you won't find anything physically broken, just worn out. I was able to lift out the motor by using the ring off of the water manifold and a head bolt. The engine weighs about 650 lbs fully dressed, so make sure you have a half decent engine stand that will hold at least 700 lbs.
You want to attach the chain at mid engine, with 3/8 bolts and flat washers to keep the bolts from pulling thru the chain...At this stage , I would remove the other head and then pull the short block using the short head bolts attached at mid engine... While you have the engine out , replace the engine mounts, and the starter... if you put either one back in with a new engine they will fail.... you will need to get a ridge cutter and cut the ridges from the top of the cyl walls,,,, if you dont , you will break rings and ring lands trying to get the pistons out...You can borrow or rent this tool at your local parts house.... in fact all the tools , ridge cutter, ring groove cleaner, ring sqweezer, ect can be rented or borrowed... Drop the starter out, drop the bell housing inspection cover, unbolt the torque converter, and exhaust pipes... then go to the front of the engine and remove the radiator, fan, pullys, belts, upper and lower rad hoses, fan shroud,,,p/s pump, a/c compressor,,,, completely remove any thing that you can and tie the rest out of your way with tie wire... double check for wires, trans lines, carb linkages ect.... then lift the engine out , slow and easy... remember all that you damage, will have to be fixed, or replaced.... After you get the pan off, and start to break down the engine be sure that you get some 3/8 fuel hose and make some sleeves to go over the rod bolts after you remove the rod caps and start to bump the piston/rods out of the engine... IF YOU DONT, YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CRANK SHAFT.... Trust me on this, been there , done it , got the tshirt....
update- pulled motor from car- and took it to a local engine rebuilder to tear down and see what it needs.
I got the motor back and installed it. Major oil leak from oil filter area. I think it is coming from the oil filter mount area. I put a new gasket under the mount and torqued it to 30 foot lbs. Oilo streams out when engine runs. Is it possible that I need a new mount??ou:
The motor sounded great for a minute. One of the cylinders ring lands were destroyed that what caused all the blow by.
Congrats on getting the motor back and running good again. Sorry to hear about the minor oil leak. Hopefully it'll be an easy fix.
$3300 later she is up and running smooth as silk. The main problem is that the ring lands in piston #6 were broken and the rings were gone. Hurray-no more messy oil blow by or nasty ticking noise!!:beer
