I'm getting my engine rebuilt next week. The plans are: headers, TA intake, TA212 cam, bored .030 over. This is a 9:1 350, with the stock quadrajet. What kind of hp am I looking at? Is this a "good" set up? The car has a stock limited slip rear end...will this be good enough for a 13.xx sec car? Should I go with hei ignition or would the stock points be okay for now?
You are on the right track for a 13 second setup if the carb and timing are set correctly. The TA212 cam is my favorite for Stock 350s. Add a points elimination kit from pertronix.
Yes and no depending on your intended driving style. If you want the best MPG and want to put around town then the stock converter is fine. If you want better acceleration from a stop then sure a higher stall will make the car MOVE off the line even witha stock cam.
Stall it is then...is a 2000 stall enough fun? Also, I see different sizes 9.5", 10", 12", etc...what size do I need? ---------- Post added at 06:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:55 AM ---------- Okay I've got a few more qustions, then I'll stop being a pest p Like most people I'm on a budget. Is the TA intake worth it if I'm getting headers, cam, & stall? It has the stock 4bbl on there now. ---------- Post added at 06:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:00 AM ---------- Okay I've got a few more qustions, then I'll stop being a pest p Like most people I'm on a budget. Is the TA intake worth it if I'm getting headers, cam, & stall? It has the stock 4bbl on there now.
If you want the car to move off the line quick then go with a 2500 rated stall converter, it will likely flash up to about 2700 RPM when you punch it off the line which is great. Honestly, the stock 4bb intake is just a s good if not better than the TA intake. Keep asking questions, you are not being a pest!
Great, thanks. Is there a significant advantage to having posi? Sure is expensive...worth the money or no? Would just adding 3.73 gears be ok?
A lot of big block cars did not run in the 13's stock. If you want to take trips at highway speeds avoid 3.73 gears. That ratio is not avaiable for a 70 Buick 8.2 anyway. A used set of 3.23s is about as high as I would go. Without head work you will be in the 300 horsepower range SAE. You are starting out with less than 250 hp. Here is what is takes to get to 350 hp. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...-350-Buildup-info-and-dyno-results&highlight=
I would'nt go any deeper than 3.42 gears for the rear unless you plan on an overdrive trans. and dont drive on the highway much. 3.73 gears will get annoying on the highway, and rev the engine needlessly. 3.42 gears are good, 3.23 would be even better I think for your mild combo. ---------- Post added at 11:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ---------- Damn, Flynbuick beat me to it! LOL ---------- Post added at 11:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 AM ---------- Damn, Flynbuick beat me to it! LOL
Ok, lets back up a bit. What do you plan to use the car for? If you plan to race at all then something like a 3.42 gear is great but you would need to hire a shop to install the rear gears and it would be a waste of time and money to not add limited slip unit in the rear. If you are not racing then leave the rear end alone. Call Monzaz if you need rear end parts of advice: 1-330-990-8155
With 373gears and a 28" tire 275-60-15's you will be at 3000 rpm to run at 60 mph on the highway. Sean's advice above is the bottom line with the rear set up.
So it would cost me roughly $6500 to get 350hp??? If that's the case, it's back to the drawing board for this Buick lover! Too many more sensible options for that price. ou: ---------- Post added at 05:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:38 PM ---------- So it would cost me roughly $6500 to get 350hp??? If that's the case, it's back to the drawing board for this Buick lover! Too many more sensible options for that price. ou:
What are you using this car for? Street/strip or strip only. Are you really looking for big HP, or do your really want a nice broad torque curve that drives nice from idle to 5600 RPM? The Buick 350s strong points are: Strong block, and well designed bottom end assembly, and heads have potential to flow great when ported. The best way to take advantage of this engine is with head porting and matching a nice cam with the compression of the engine. Unless you get into a custom sheet metal intake the best RPM range to shoot for is 3000-5600 for the HP and TQ. Addnig a massive cam is a common mistake, as is not having the heads ported. Does your engine NEED a rebuild? What are your compression readings in all 8 cylinders with the throttle held wide open during testing? If your engine is in good shape you can simply add a good cam, have the heads ported and top it off with the stock 4bb intake and rebuilt Q jet. You could do the above for about $2500. Sure, if you want the most HP for the lowest price then buy a 383 stroker SBC for about $4000. Then you have to mess with a trans. adapter, find some chevelle SB mounts, fan shroud, mess with the electrical to wire the dist, among other ussues like accessories which will not bolt up. All together you will likely spend about $1500 in misc. things plus about 20 hours in messing with things. So you can now see that there is more to the equation then just the HP the engine makes. If I was in your situation I would find another Buuick 350, and rebuild it as time and $ allowed then swap it in when I was ready. This way you can enjoy the car and have the power you want with a bolt in swap.... Keep in mind that for about $2000 you can buy a Twin Turbocharger kit for the Buick 350.
Well its smokes, runs like crap and is leaking oil from everywhere....and looks like crap too. My plans are to have a car that I can drive to work occasionally, maybe take the family out to lunch on the weekends. Maybe even take a short road trip in...and run it down the track every once in a while. Not looking for massive hp, just some thing that's more fun. Just seems disappointing that with headers, rebuilt heads, cam, and points conversion that I won't even make 350 hp. I'm sure I'm sticking with this plan...just disappointing is all.
I'm astounded by the concept of getting an engine built in a week... Good luck to you Ben. I think you'll find the job takes several months... My last rebuild took about eight.
Might check out this for some cheap speed ideas http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?162059-Docs-cheap-tricks-sticky And also "power timing" http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?63475-Power-Timing-your-Buick-V8 One other option is to reduce the weight in your car, I took out the spare wheel in back its the original one from the 60's so I wouldn't use it anyways. Even in stock form I find the 340 in my Skylark has plenty of get up and go.
I agree, all the more reason to rebuild another engine and keep the car on the road. To save some cash find some used headers, buy a Q jet from Everyday Performance, use a stock 4bb intake. Then spend your extra money on the head porting. Be sure to have the machine shop inspect and measure the engine before you order a rebuild kit. I prefer the rebuild kits from Northern: http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=3717 I would buy the above kit and just ask them to delete the camshaft and cam bearings. Then order a cam and grooved cam bearings as well as an adjustable oil pressure regulator, and oil pump rebuild kit plus the oil pump shim kit all from TA. Keep in mind that the machine shop may find your cylinder walls within spec and you may be able to get away with a re-ring job which would save you money. Same goes for the crank, you may not even need over sized bearings depending on the wear. This is the secret to building a good engine on a budget. Not doing more than required and spending your money in the right places to increase your power.
Where'd you get that it will only take a week from? I said that I'm taking it to get rebuilt next week. The job will take, at the least, 1 month. Everything is done in-house. Nothing gets shipped anywhere. He has 4 employees and my motor will make 4 motors in his shop for rebuild and he calls that "busy". So I guess it depends on where you're taking it to.
And the car is not on the road right now any way...I got hit about two months ago so I had to remove the driver side door, fenders, and hood. Here's what she looks like right now"
