Engine bay restoration Step 1 - How do I remove rocker moulding.

I am having some buddies over this weekend where we will begin the first step of disassembling the front clip of the car for under the hood restoration, minor engine work, new clutch, and trans work. Keep in mind we have never taken a front clip off.

Already have a question and it’s the first step. Taking off the fenders Saturday, what do I do with this rocker moulding. I have never removed trim like this, don’t want to damage it, and really don’t want to have an accident with the paint on the car??

 

remove small screws on the very bottom of molding.
pull out molding a tad bit and lift straight up
the top of the molding slides down over a strip of metal and round disc.

 

Re: Engine bay restoration Step 2 for dummies

Well this is the first time I have done this. Had some guys over from work. We got a lot done. Next will be to get the transmission out, then going to take some of the engine accessories off, and yank the engine. Anyone see anything they would like to advise, never have I pulled trans, engine, etc.

This project will include several mechanical repairs, such as 4 spd rebuilt, new clutch, and the engine was apparently rebuilt before I got it but has loud tick from drivers rear of engine. I rebuilt oil pump but leaks and timing cover looks shot inside. Pulled valve covers when engine warm one day and it pumps oil out of all rockers like crazy (good news). I will pull the intake off, prob slide new cam in (I WANT RADICAL IDLE), new lifters, timing chain, and cover, rest of engine I think ok for now. I will add questions later on checking lifter preload (pushrod length) and proper lifter bore.

Again I am sure I will have questions, but feel free to make observations.

 

Re: Engine bay restoration Step 2 for dummies

Any advice on taking the 4 speed out, was going to take it out from below then remove the engine. Will I need a transmission jack for this project?

 

Re: Engine bay restoration Step 2 for dummies

I had a "tick" on one of my cars that turned out to be a bad header gasket because the bolts had come loose. Hopefully yours is something as simple too, that just going through and torquing things down to spec will work it out..

 

With the front clip off, I would pull the engine and trans as one unit with the hoist. You can then seperate them out of the car- much simpler.

Eric

 

Just a little tip some one recomended to me was to bag & tag everything. you're going to end up with a whole of nuts bolts & clips.Great help if you tag everything .Pictures are a good idea also .It may be a while before it all goes back together. I regret not taking pictures . Good luck .Mike

 

Rick, is that a stratomist car? Love the color combo!!!:TU:

 

I would go ahead and replace the heater blower while you have the fender off. As you know it is under the fender and a PITA to replace with the fender on. I was also thinking to pull engine and trans as a unit as well as reinstall as a unit. Its so much easier bolting everything together when you can sit on a stool (or bucket) and you can get to everything.

When it comes time to reinstall the fenders tape the edges to help prevent any damage to the paint.

 

Once you pull the driveshaft, you will need a plug for the rear of the trans . Otherwise when you tilt it with the engine it will dump the gearbox oil.

When you go back with the clutch and trans you will need a line up shaft. The spline number will depend on the year Muncie trans you have. Course is 70 and under while I think the fine spline started in 71.

I would consider changing the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing and go with a Dual Friction. You can get these from Summit.

 

Lots of GREAT input. I have bagged and tagged so far, thanks for the idea.

I have not looked up the name of the original colors but in dissassembling various parts from the car it seems it was the original color.

Going to replace the blower motor. After further thought going to pull as one unit. Great advice on draining the trans fluid. The current transmission in the car is a 4 spd borg warner ST-10 prob from 70's. I plan to just rebuild that one, although my understanding is they did not come with that in 70.

 

Flywheels tend to get scored over time. Examine it for this and have it milled back smooth.

 

Well since it is all apart, would like to put new flywheel and clutch assebly in. Do you have any suggestions, the most this will ever be is mild street strip.

 

I removed my core support to facilitate removal ot the drive train . If it needs repair it ccan be done at this time savinfg a lot of dissassembly later.

 

Well I took a load of stuff to the powder coaters today. Somebody made a patch panel for the core support under the battery tray, anyway I think that will be ok but we found the the inner fender has actually been patched with fiberglass and painted black. No good for powder coating. I did find they have a patch panel at CARS for the inner fender to weld up. The powder coater said he may have a guy to patch it up but thought to look for a new one. That was before we knew you could by the patch portion. What is my best bet here, get the patch part ordered from CARS or search for a new one, any input? Thanks.

 

the patch panel is the way to go. They are actually pretty nice pieces and finding an rotted one is more than likely very difficult (unless you have quite a bit of:dollar:.

 

I would order the patch. Finding an inner fender with no rot will probably be pretty difficult.


PS.. I wonder how many guys look at Nate's avatar and push Alt+F4... (like I just did) to see what it does? ou: p

 

Doh I had no idea!!!!!! Wait until I tell him this news!

 

Definately food for thought! As i will be attempting to remove my motor so i can slap some fresh paint on it. Any tips on what paint?????

 

Engine paint: DUPLICOLOR high heat RED DH1608. Follow directions!!! yes it needs to cure quite a while (7 DAYS!!!)