1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Electra Exhaust Manifold Gaskets Uhhh?

Discussion in 'A boatload of fun' started by mineseats9, Dec 8, 2004.

  1. mineseats9

    mineseats9 Gold Level Contributor

    I just got my '74 Limited running smooth and now I need to decide whether or not to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets or live with that annoying sputter. I will be taking the A/C stuff out so that will give me some room,but do I need to lift the motor up for this or can it be done as it sits? I've pulled the manifolds on 455 motors when they are out of the car,but never with one in a car. Running the motor should help with heating the bolts up,but what I need to decide is whether or not it is worth tackling. I received the car in a package deal with a '67 GS 4-Speed hardtop that has no motor.The Limited has nice interior w/all power options. Body is not too bad except the vinyl top wasted away and rotted a couple holes in the pillar area.I'll probably part it after winter if anyone wants anything minus motor/trans. Thanks in advance for any tips or warnings or opinions etc.
     
  2. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Have you had the bolts off before?

    If you're not ready to pul a head off to extract a broken bolt, then I'd leave it alone.
     
  3. jamyers

    jamyers 2 gallons of fun

    How much room is there to raise a 455 if you just pulled the motor mount bolts? On my 350, I can raise the engine/trans quite a bit - nearly had to try that route lately when I replaced my manifold gaskets, but I got lucky: The problem bolt was a short one, I was able to grind off the head and pull the manifold over it. If a long one went, you could be in for a real PITA.

    But then, I hate annoying noises/sputters! :rant:
     
  4. mineseats9

    mineseats9 Gold Level Contributor

    exhaust

    I never had the bolts off and it looks like no one else has either. I've broken a couple off on engines that were out of the car and that is why I'm trying to decide if I should bother with it. Please hold off on the Mopar jokes,but both of my '66 Polara Wagons with 383 engines had the rear bolts on the manifolds work loose. I had to tighten about half the bolts on each manifold on each car. Is there a reason for this (like a design difference) besides the fact that they are Mopars? Thanks for the replies.
     
  5. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    If you soak them over a period of days with pentrating oil like Mouse Milk it will take a lot of the terror out of the job. Try just a touch of clock wise torque first and then back c clockwise. Keep soaking them with a brush first over time.
     
  6. jamyers

    jamyers 2 gallons of fun

    Had the same thing happen on my Buick 350 after 15 years and 150,000 miles, half the bolts on both sides worked loose and the gaskets blew. Or maybe the gaskets blew first, I wouldn't think so, but... :Do No:

    Just one of those fun things that happens, I believe. :rant:
     

Share This Page