1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Dry setting of float level

Discussion in 'Holley' started by LARRY70GS, Sep 7, 2014.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Getting my AED 1000 HO carburetor ready for Cecil County. Awhile back, I bought 2 fuel bowls with the nice big site glasses. Much better than the standard AED bowls with the screw in plugs. I successfully removed the floats and needle/seat assemblies, accelerator pump diaphragms, and installed them in the new float bowls. I also installed jet extenders and a notched float in the back bowl. I was wondering about dry setting the float level, and if there was a spec for that that would get me in the ball park, and if it mattered about the type of float. The front float is brass, but the rear notched float is some sort of plastic. I know once I start the engine that the float levels should be adjusted so that fuel level is in the center of the site glass, correct? Any help on dry setting the floats? Do I lift the floats and measure from the top surface of the float to the top surface of the bowl?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    brass and nitrophyl floats - with bowl upside down , adjust so top of float ( now facing down ) is basically level with top of bowl ( also now facing down ) . plastic floats are a little dif due to some kind of float equation but close to that . I don't think it made a dif with notched floats ? that should get ya close and started . and on standard bowls , wet and running ( bring rpm up till motor smooths out to get a good read ) I always just get the gas to start running over bottom site plug threads . sight glass style could be dif ? plus AED may specify something else ?
    specs are out in barn , will check the numbers later if I go out .
    edit : went out , it was buggin' me .
    ok , they actually had setting figures but for the side hung floats . it was the flip n level method for center hung . as a wet adjustment they actually recommended starting and stopping the motor to make adjustments while the motor was off ( which may be a little safer I guess but a whole lot more annoying ) , setting the level at or just below the sight plug hole . same primary and secondary . no mention of dif settings for notched floats . truthfully I usually just stuff a rag under bowl to catch any gas that runs out . there may be some fancy smancy gadget to do that .
    dry setting : plastic center hung floats are primary 5/16" , secondary 3/8" - inverted , measuring at rear center of float . wet setting same as above .
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  4. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    that appears to be taken right outa my holley catalog info
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Thanks Del, I set it up according to those guidelines. The back notched float is some sort of plastic. Don't know what Duracon is:Do No: This is the E Bay ad, http://www.ebay.com/itm/17094374077...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr In any case, I set the float level in the back a bit higher, actually 5/16" from the top surface with the fuel bowl inverted.
     
  6. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    duracon is the plastic style floats - will start out probably white but after time n use turn kind of a light brown color .
    the one in pic is a nitrophyl style float . bad gas , ethanol etc not good - I think it weakens the surface coating ( as a nick will also ) and allows gas to contaminate the float , usually making it heavier and therefore less accurate as far as float level . I kinda like the brass for that reason and the plastics are probably ok also . plus you can kinda shake n inspect those to see if they are leaking . but I think what you have is the only choice for a notched float .
    as a side note that carb work bench you have looks real comfy !
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Thanks again,
    I guess I'll have to keep an eye on the float and make sure it doesn't degrade over time. I have the AED push on type jet extenders that don't require a notched float, but they are a real pain to get on, so I went with the traditional screw in jet extenders and that nitrophyl notched float.

    The carburetor is on my bed, but it hasn't been on the car for a year, so it is dry. Good thing I have no wife, it wouldn't go over big.:laugh:
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I contacted the E Bay seller and asked about the float material. He claimed it was compatible with all fuels. Not sure how to tell the diiference between nitrophyl and plastic?
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Got my AED carburetor squared away. Float levels look good. The only problem I had was the fuel inlet fittings. Both of them leaked. The metal washers that are supposed to seal them were bent a bit, I guess when I transferred them from my other fuel bowls to the new ones. What a pain in the:moonu: Anyway, I got a pair of nylon gaskets and installed them. The Speed shop counter guy said the nylon ones are more reliable and seal up better. We will see. Going down to Cecil County this Friday. Gonna run the car again and see if my larger exhaust picks the car up any. Gonna try running high stall for the whole run, and I am also going to use my GV to go through the traps in 2nd over instead of 3rd. That should let me RPM better through the traps.
     
  10. tufbuick

    tufbuick RIP

    Good Luck "WIZARD"!!! * I'll be watchin'.

    *Don't forget to wear your lucky shirt.
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Thanks Ronny. Gotta remember to pack that shirt! On second thought, I'll just wear it Friday.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. stg2NW

    stg2NW Well-Known Member

    Any results to share?
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Sure. I did pick up some. My best E.T was an 11.54, best MPH was a 115.89. The Q-jet picked up the most from last year, a solid 2 tenths and 2 MPH. The AED, not so much, but there was a tenth and not even 1 MPH. I'll post my 2013 and 2014 timeslips. I made 6 passes both years, Q-jet was the first 3 passes, AED, the second 3 passes. This year, the second run, I spun bad and lost 2 tenths 60'. That was a result of getting too far up on the converter (2500 RPM) and me lowering the tire pressure to 16 psi. This year, the car didn't like that, so I went back to 18 psi, and a 2000 RPM launch, and it hooked well consistently like that. On that second run, my hose hook came loose and bent my fan blade tips on the return road. I used vice grips to straighten the blades out as best I could and kept racing. After pass #6, I noticed coolant dripping onto the balancer. Thinking the fan imbalance took out the WP, I stopped racing and started packing up, and taking the DRs off. I didn't want to jeopardize my ride home. When I looked at it later, I realized that the bolt on the top of the water pump (that holds the alternator bracket/brace) had backed out enough so that the gasket was seeping and dripping down. I'm glad I stopped when I did, but I was just about to try using the GV to get through the traps at 6000 RPM, so I didn't get to try that. I will though. The car felt better with the bigger exhaust for sure, and it sounded great. Basically, the car ran 11.60's with the Q-jet, and 11.50's with the AED. My gas mileage went up also. On 1 leg of my trip home, I got 18 MPG. I could not believe it.
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page