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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Drum to Disc Brakes

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by badcat, Sep 29, 2004.

  1. badcat

    badcat Big Buick Driver

    I would like to convert my drum to disc brakes. I have done some searching, but cannot find a kit to do so. Any thoughts / challenges on making the conversion. I am thinking about scavanging parts from a 70 or 71 full size....
    :puzzled:
     
  2. 70 gsconvt

    70 gsconvt Silver Level contributor

    What kind of car are we talking about?
     
  3. GStage1

    GStage1 Always looking for parts!

  4. GS464

    GS464 Hopelessly Addicted

    Not a Big Problem

    This is actually an easy swap on the "A" Body, assuming that's what you are talking about. I went the junkyard parts route for my 67 GS 400. I acutally ended up spending more that way than I would have if I had gone with the SSB or other company's kit. I also would have saved myself A LOT of running around chasing parts. About the only thing I used from the junkyard parts were the spindles and the proportioning valve. The rest of it (wheel bearings, master cylinder & booster, rotors and calipers) were only good for cores and I replaced them.

    My kit came from a 1970 Monte Carlo (Yep. That's an "A" Body).

    When I did mine I figured with the age of the front end parts, plus a stripped ball-joint nut/stud, I did the whole front end at once though that isn't absolutely necessary. If you go the recycled route, try to get all of the little hard parts, clips, and fittings. I managed to redo my existing steel lines using the recycled flare nuts. DO NOT USE the old hoses. New ones are very cheap insurance.

    Basically the swap goes like this: Support the front of the car with the wheels off, use a spring compressor if you have one as it is safer than a jack. If your engine isn't sitting in the car, you will need a spring compressor no matter what. Remove the old brake hoses.

    Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE!!) the nuts that hold the ball joints and spindles together. Take a large ball pein hammer and rap the spindle where the stud for the ball joint goes through. Hit it pretty good and the stud will pop loose. You can also use the trusty pickle fork and sledge method but mine seems easier on my ears :laugh:

    Do the same thing for the bottom ball joint stud. Once BOTH ball joints are loose, compress the spring until there is no tension on the spindle and remove the nuts, lower the lower control arm using a jack and remove the complete spindle and brake assembly.

    Installation is the reverse. It should all fit back together using the same ball joints. If you don't intend to rebuild the front-end, this swap can be done in a day with some assistance.

    Don't forget that you will have to replace the old junction block where the front and rear brakes get fed pressure with the new proportioning valve. This will most likely require replacing the flare fittings. Not hard if you have the proper tool. Remember that brake lines are double flare and to do the new connections that way. :Smarty:

    By the way, I sold my old finned drums on ebay for about $160! :beer

    If you get stuck or have more questions, just holler! :TU:
     

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