I would like to convert my drum to disc brakes. I have done some searching, but cannot find a kit to do so. Any thoughts / challenges on making the conversion. I am thinking about scavanging parts from a 70 or 71 full size.... uzzled:
You can buy everything you need new from www.opgi.com or www.thepartsplaceinc.com or or www.nationalpartsdepot.com Here is the info you need: http://www.buickperformance.com/discbrak.htm
Not a Big Problem This is actually an easy swap on the "A" Body, assuming that's what you are talking about. I went the junkyard parts route for my 67 GS 400. I acutally ended up spending more that way than I would have if I had gone with the SSB or other company's kit. I also would have saved myself A LOT of running around chasing parts. About the only thing I used from the junkyard parts were the spindles and the proportioning valve. The rest of it (wheel bearings, master cylinder & booster, rotors and calipers) were only good for cores and I replaced them. My kit came from a 1970 Monte Carlo (Yep. That's an "A" Body). When I did mine I figured with the age of the front end parts, plus a stripped ball-joint nut/stud, I did the whole front end at once though that isn't absolutely necessary. If you go the recycled route, try to get all of the little hard parts, clips, and fittings. I managed to redo my existing steel lines using the recycled flare nuts. DO NOT USE the old hoses. New ones are very cheap insurance. Basically the swap goes like this: Support the front of the car with the wheels off, use a spring compressor if you have one as it is safer than a jack. If your engine isn't sitting in the car, you will need a spring compressor no matter what. Remove the old brake hoses. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE!!) the nuts that hold the ball joints and spindles together. Take a large ball pein hammer and rap the spindle where the stud for the ball joint goes through. Hit it pretty good and the stud will pop loose. You can also use the trusty pickle fork and sledge method but mine seems easier on my ears :laugh: Do the same thing for the bottom ball joint stud. Once BOTH ball joints are loose, compress the spring until there is no tension on the spindle and remove the nuts, lower the lower control arm using a jack and remove the complete spindle and brake assembly. Installation is the reverse. It should all fit back together using the same ball joints. If you don't intend to rebuild the front-end, this swap can be done in a day with some assistance. Don't forget that you will have to replace the old junction block where the front and rear brakes get fed pressure with the new proportioning valve. This will most likely require replacing the flare fittings. Not hard if you have the proper tool. Remember that brake lines are double flare and to do the new connections that way. :Smarty: By the way, I sold my old finned drums on ebay for about $160! :beer If you get stuck or have more questions, just holler! :TU:
