1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

Driving Problem..

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by new71lark, Sep 24, 2004.

  1. new71lark

    new71lark Active Member

    Hi, I have a 71 skylark with a factory 2 barrell on it at the moment, I have a new stage 1 intake from T/A, but have yet to install it with a 4 barrell. Anyhow, my problem is with the current 2 barrell on there. It runs very nicely in the driveway, but when I take it out on the road, I get a random distance and the car seems to bog down quickly. When it starts doing it, I can floor the gas, and it will continue to chug at barely over idle speed. If I do nothing, it dies immediately. The car I would like to start driving daily to iron out some problems with it, but can't for obvious reasons. It sat for something like 7 or 8 years before I got hold of it. Any thoughts on what may be causing the problem? I assume it to be some sort of fuel/carb problem since it runs so strong in the driveway.

    Any help is greatly appreciated

    Jeff
     
    new71lark, Sep 24, 2004
    #1
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Fuel Pump, would be my guess. Could also be time for a carb rebuild. The float could be sticking. Lots of things deteriorate when a car sits for a long time, namely rubber parts. Do a fuel pressure/volume test on the car. Also check for vacuum leaks.
     
    LARRY70GS, Sep 24, 2004
    #2
  3. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    Carb

    Jeff, If that carb is a rochechester 2gc the best thing You can do is pitch it. My mom had one on an olds that nearly ran me crazy with stalling and pukeing fuel out on top of the engine. Its a wonder the thing didnt catch fire and burn. But back to Your problem , It sounds like you may be running out of fuel. Sometimes when a car has set for a long time the diaphragm in the fuel pump will dry and crack and then when you crank it up the pump will supply enough fuel to start but not enough to run down the road. The fuel leans out when you step down on it,after the shot from the accelerator pump is used up. This is usually indicated by a muffled 'ppllump' sound in the air cleaner when the engine gets a lean mixture backfire thru the carb. Then the eng either dies or barely will keep running. This also could be caused by a stuck carb float. [ again insufficent fuel supply] with the engine ideling, LIGHTLY tap on the carb above the needle/seat assembly. some times you can cause the float to loosen up that way. If this fails then take the top off the carb and unstick the float. while You are under the hood do a quick check on the dist. advance diaphram by sucking the hose to pull a vacume on it and then stick your toung over the hole in the hose to see if the diaphragm holds the vacume. I have found several bad vac advances that way. :Brow: :Brow:
     
    doc, Sep 25, 2004
    #3

Share This Page