Driveshaft Question

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by Keith Smith, May 8, 2007.

  1. Keith Smith

    Keith Smith Well-Known Member

    For you 3800# 9 and 10 second GS's in stock bodied cars....what type of driveshaft are you running and did you see any benefits for those of you that upgraded? Is it a 3 1/2 or 4 inch? I was interested in a Metal Matrix but Dyno Tech tells me the material is no longer available. They suggested an aluminum version in a 4" if I can get it to fit.
    Thanks,
     
  2. Todd69GS

    Todd69GS Silver Level contributor

    I know some drive shaft builders don't want you to use alum. if you have a full weight car, especially if you are running nitrous or a brake.

    My brother and I were going to order a steel nitrous shaft from
    www.dennysdriveshaft.com but he is on a 4 week backorder. ended up ordering a chromemoly shaft from DTS but they said the same thing. Heavy car = steel driveshaft. But I know there are guys running alum with full weight cars and nitrous.
     
  3. Jeff Hart

    Jeff Hart Platinum Level Contributor

    Hey Keith,

    I still run the 4" steel, but I know Gary L has run the aluminum for quite some time but I don't know how much track time it has had. I run mine pretty hard.
     
  4. Jim Rodgers

    Jim Rodgers Well-Known Member

    The Mark Williams 3.5" accubond gold aluminum will hold up fine, and is worth some et.
     
  5. Buizila

    Buizila GO BROWNS !!!!!!

    I'm using a 3.5" HD 1350 aluminum from Denny's Custom Driveshafts in PA and it's holding up just fine. I weigh in at 3750 w/driver. I had a stock driveshaft brake on me on a chasis dyno 2.5 yrs ago, and tore up everything, so its definitly worth the investment.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2007
  6. Bobb Makley

    Bobb Makley Well-Known Member

    I ran a aluminum in the black car at 3725# it ran in the high nines with no problem I hit it a few times with the brake but not very often. I did go to a chromemoly shaft from strange when I added the blower. Scott at scotts crap(custom rears and parts) did me a great job he works with a ton of fastest street car guy's like Bishoff, Parent etc.
     
  7. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    I've run a 6061 alum Dynotech 3.5 shaft for years. Best 9.96 at 3710 lbs.

    Bruce
     
  8. Keith Smith

    Keith Smith Well-Known Member

    Has anybody made a swap at the track and seen a performance gain? How much is the difference in weight?
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2007
  9. standup 69

    standup 69 standup69

    A few years back in drag racer magazine they did a test on a F stock buick for et differences on three shafts. stock, aliminum, and metal matrix and the aluminum was the slowest of the bunch and they attributed it to wind up in the shaft hurting the 60 ft this was in a 3800 pound car that left hard in the 1.4 range.I have to admit I have been running the stock gm shaft forever and it has taking a beating of the brake for years one of these days I will upgrade
     
  10. Johnny Angel

    Johnny Angel Well-Known Member

    What is the best choice, for a 3800 to 4000 lb car with 548 HP, and 590 FT LBS of TQ? Street/Strip car. I need to get a new shaft, so I will not be using the stock one. Any help would be appreciated.

    Regards, John.:)
     
  11. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    I have to admit I have been running the stock gm shaft forever and it has taking a beating of the brake for years one of these days I will upgrade


    Adam, are you taking about the STOCK shaft.....the one with a rubber dampener in it.:shock:
     
  12. Jeff Kitchen

    Jeff Kitchen Well-Known Member

    I have a 3.5" aluminum from PST here in Florida. When I bought it I painted a thin red stripe down the length of the shaft. I check it every once in a awhile and it's still straight, so the shaft is not twisting permanantly. I think the cushion effect of the aluminum helps protect the ring and pinion, too.
     
  13. standup 69

    standup 69 standup69

    Jim it is not the rubber bonded one it is all one piece .065 GM mild steel probably not what it was intended for.
     
  14. standup 69

    standup 69 standup69

    If you have to buy a shaft for that application a good 3.5 inch chromoly shaft from mark williams or strange would be my choice there are better more expensive ones but for the money that will be just fine I feel u joint replacement on a regular basis is good insurance.
     
  15. bignastyGS

    bignastyGS Maggot pilot

    Has anyone used a shaft from Strange?? I have the catalog and they list 3 different types. The U1700 that comes seamless and has 1350 yokes and their ultra impact solid U joints is $339 or the same shaft(U1702) with 1350 spicer HD U joints is $295.
     
  16. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    i guess ill take a quick quote, planned on denny's fancy steel one with 1350's, but here it is:

    driveshaft for about 3900 lb car with driver and able to hold 800 hp (hopefully only running 750, some guessing 600's :( )

    thanks
     
  17. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Thanks Adam, didn't think it would be the bonded one, but never the less.....still impressive:TU: Jim
     
  18. standup 69

    standup 69 standup69

    living on the edge wonder which is weaker the shaft or the stock block LOL
     
  19. Dubuick

    Dubuick CMDR Racer



    That is what I was thinking......:beers2:
     
  20. Clark Porter

    Clark Porter Team Headless Chicken

    Twisted a stock shaft like a pretzel during a burnout about 12 years ago. The driveshaft loop got bent, but it saved my butt (literally). Don't fool around with inadequate driveshafts in high-torque racing applications. My painfully learned $.02.
     

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