Going to tackle the head removal this week…drivers side… Inner fender is in the car. I can reach all of the header bolts with my hand/ fingers. Middle lower header bolt suggestions? Thank you!!!!
I have a thin handled wrench to loosen the bolts and then I use the small ignition wrenches (I have the straight and the angled).
Depending on the header that middle lower bolt hole is slotted on the header flange, so there is some chance you'll only have to loosen that bolt and lift the header off. That is a real time/aggravation saver. If it's not slotted, then definitely make it before you reinstall!!
https://www.acehardware.com/departm...V1H5MCh3I8QB3EAQYASABEgLn1PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/wrenches/2296440 Can't tell by the pics but they are thinner
Here is another type of ignition wrench I have with straight and angled ends with a modified wrench (torch and bend) I bought at a swap meet
George, Take the motor motor mount bolt out, and raise the engine on that side. This will give some extra clearance.
I have the same headers. The drivers side is a bit of a pain, but like others said modified wrenches help. The lower center bolt is the toughest followed by the back lower bolt. I took a 7/16” wrench and cut about 50% of the material off of the box end. I can get a 1/4 turn easily, just takes time. The back bolt uses a short wrench. Just enough length to get on the bolt and a 1/4 turn before you hit the firewall. Power brakes adds to the pain I just switch to 12 point 3/8” head ARP header bolts in most places but kept the 6 point 7/16 on the center and back bolt.
Can you please take a few pics or a pic of the wrenches? I figured the center bolt was going to be a pain...
Well…. Got 5 of the 7 bolts out! The center lower was easy as pie! Now it’s the top forward and the lower rear. I broke a wrench trying to get the top upper one… I have no idea… thoughts? Ideas on rear lower one? These are all that’s left!!! I can pull the head after this!!!!
Keep it soaked with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. See if you can get a 6pt socket on it. maybe some heat.
That bolt looks almost rounded. My guess the end will be a blue tip wrench. Hopefully can heat it up and get it out. If not, if you are removing the heads you could cut the bolts off and deal with it later.
Ok…. I posted about the header bolts… for you 6 point people, these are what I used to tighten the DS lower rear and the middle lower bolts….
Oh, man. I feel your pain. My first set of BBB headers were Kenne-Bell, mid to late '80's, they too had that #1 cylinder clearance problem. It didn't seem a big deal for installation, since every bolt could be "in" a few threads with the header flange away from the head surface a bit. I don't think you're gonna get that bolt out unless you have the rest loosened already. That final bolt, while loosening one painful degree of rotation at a time, will require the header flange to move with it...so all the other bolts on that side will have to be loose or out already. Ugh. And yes, I did have one long reach 5/16" box end wrench that was torched and bent into submission for that awful center bolt, but there was no way to get a box end on the one you're showing, which is why the poor bolt head takes such a beating being turned by an open end wrench. I'm thinking the same as others...heat, penetrating oil, patience. Devon
