Dot 5?

I was looking at my master cylinder, and the rust below the bleeders where the brake fluid must have run a bit. I have the master cylinder off, the calipers off, proportioning valve off, will be changing the brake lines, and could pop in new rear cylinders if necessary.

My question, as per the title, is should I go ahead and flush the various parts that are all off (or are coming off) anyway, and install DOT 5? I like the lack of water absorption and the fact that the silicone won't eat my paint. This sounds like a good deal for a car that will be detailed and only driven on nice days.

However, I've read that the silicone can cause problems with natural rubber and the pedal can be a bit spongy as it compresses more that the glycol based fluids.

Recommendations? Experiences?

 

We are going 5 for the reasons you state. We did a 70 convert changeover with no side effects.

 

So the brake pedal feel was ok? Stopping power pretty much the same?

Thanks, Jim.

 

Felt the same to me. I think all newer cars use it.


I would get rid of the rear wheel cylinders . They may not be original in evens yours. New ones are cheap. Keeeping them is like trying to keep your old brake shoes and have them relined.. You have to draw the line somewhere.


I got really intimate with a spring compressor today. They are all back in. I will post updated pics soon to keep you inspired.

 

Yeah, I put replacement wheel cylinders in there last year. I figure they're cheap enough to just take them out and put another set in rather than trying to flush them. Rebuilding the calipers was a piece of cake, I'll probably just do that again and clean them out good.

Spring compressor, eh? I was sweating bullets pulling my old ones out. That's an awful lot of energy stored up there! How did you keep from marring the finish on the springs? Or did you just do some post install touch-up?

Yeah, keep the pics coming! I've been plenty inspired lately and need to keep it up! :beer

 

Well you might do a little but the inside type I rented from Autozone worked great.


I can give you a few tips when the time comes like setting the pig tail per the assembly manual within a 1/4 inch of the slot in the lower control arm. This is different from the Chassis Manual instruction.


You will need an electric or air impact gun to squeeze those boys and store that energy. Also where you grip it is critical. Basically, it is not at the top and bottom.


Did you ever determine if there is evidence that your calipers were ever black? Boy I would like to stay natural with a high temop clear coat.

 

Jim-

I just dug out my original calipers. The faces are pretty rusted, but the area surrounding the wheel studs definitely looks goldish, as mentioned in your other thread. I see no signs of black. Perhaps it was an assembly manual instruction that was not adhered to???

 

Yeah, I was pretty sure it was a rotor, but since I was negligent in putting it in a big baggie and labeling it when I took it off, I wasn't really sure. I thought it might have been a caliper too. Thanks for clarifying, Adam! You're a real asset to this board! :moonu: :laugh: :laugh:

ou:

 

Ken


With original cars as confirmation I think the original paint sign is the ticket. We are the 3rd owners so I cannot be as sure on some things so I will go with your car as the guide.

 

That's the way I'm looking at it, Jim. What I find taking apart the car prevails over anything else. For example, I will be painting my bell housing. It was obviously painted before, although I can't find any record of that being done in the assembly manual or elsewhere.

There is a definite gold tint to the area around the studs. It looks kind of like a gold anodize, although it can't be as steel cannot be anodized. Maybe a cad plate? It doesn't look as apparent in the picture as it does in person.