Don't Laugh!

So do you guys think this will do its job? My welding has gotten better since the acceleration baffle was done, I promise.

 

the pan

 

the windage tray. I have to say, I imitated Jim Weise's work a little on this...Except for the $85 Stef's wire mesh. I hope this isn't too farm-boyish.

 

No need to worry about the copy... If I did not want you guys to copy my stuff for yourself, I wouldn't post the pictures..

There is a line of reasoning that states that the open hole expanded metal stuff dramatically reduces the effectiveness of what we have going here.. The louvered tray material acts very much like a solid piece, in that oil will not directly flow thru it, and acts as an open piece like yours, in that oil can easily find it's way back to the pan, and the oil off the crank is not hitting a "brick wall".

I understand about the cost of the Stef's windage tray kit..

To keep the prices of my stuff out of the stratosphere, I went looking for an alternative that would do the job, for less $$

Good news is I found it... Moroso sells the exact same material, less the Teflon coating, and mounting stuff that comes with the stef's kit..

Found this thur Summit, and ordered it up... Yep, same stuff..

MOR-22912 Windage Tray Screen, Uni-Directional, 23`` x 16``, Universal Application $29.50

I would use that material Adam, and then run it..

JW

 

I think that the point of using a windage screen Adam, is to scrape oil off the crank and keep it down in the sump off of the crank. The screen that Stef's uses, or that which is in Moroso's kit is MUCH smaller mesh to hopefully facilitate quicker oil return AND prevent oil from wrapping around the crank (slowing it down and potentially unbalancing the crank)

This pan isn't for a skylark/gs, is it?

 

I hadn't seen the screen material usedby Moroso/Stef's, But Jim is helping me out with that. I used the material shown based on what I have seen in other pans (older designs), and what was available to me locally.
My thinking was it would break up the "tornado" that follows the crankshaft, and that since I had one screen in the pan and one around the crankshaft, it would suffice. I think Jim has me talked out of that.

The pan is going in my 50 Olds. It's a tight fit, but makes it.

 

Will it suck air?

Adam, how does the oil flow from the front to the rear of the pan? Where is the sump? I think Buick put the sump area where the pickup is so it will always be covered with oil. How does your oil stay under the pickup when accelerating, cornering, or braking?

Just curious!

Mike

 

The sump is still there, there is a trap door in the front that closes when g-forces go forward. There is also a notched baffle about half-way in the new sump area to reduce oil slosh. As for cornering, the original pan configuration hasn't changed, it just extends forward more. Basically, the whole pan is the sump now, and will hold somewhere around 12 quarts of oil. This was needed to help control oil temps because of the concreted block I have.

Not to mention all the oil that bounces back into the crankshaft with the stock pan. I think JW found quite a few ponies just by lowering the front of the pan about 1-1.5 inches.