Just freshening up the top end on a new to me GSX, with a rebuilt carb and alternator and all kinds of wiring. Id also like to remove the non-functional EGR valve . The air pump is long gone. Any problems doing this? Also, is the hot water control valve in the right direction. Its full open right now off the engine. Vacuum to close it??? TIA Bill in TR
You need a block-off plate if you remove the EGR. The heater valve is in the approximate right position. I forget which way the vac works, but if you pump it with a vac pump you can look inside + see if it's working!
Thanks Frank... for now its making heat (open) so I wont hafta worry about it until spring (unless it leaks). NAPA says still available... we'll see... Bill in TR
What year is the engine? I don't recall seeing an EGR valve before '73. In any event, as has been mentioned, you will need a block off plate. Also, the reason for the EGR valve was to reduce peak combustion temperature (thus, NOx) using exhaust gasses. You may experience detonation if it is removed. Just something to be aware of.
All this new fangled stuff has me confused. I started hot rodding in the 60's with carburetors and distributors and whoa and behold, a set of headers for Xmas for my year old 70 Chevelle (350/auto/ ragtop). Honestly, I don't know what year the motor is, or if in fact the manifold came with it. I have detonated a few 455s with a rod through the block though LOL... The EGR valve was in place but had NO vacuum line to it. To me that means the port was closed (vacuum to open/closed throttle). I made a block off plate outa 3/8 plate today. Tomorrow is a start up day with that, the new (rebuilt)carb and a new alternator. Confidence is high and all sytems are "green board". I hope the O rings hold up! Just some Buick Humor... Bill in TR So while getting ready to mount the carb, I find the old gasket is, well, part of the super whamadine atom smasher. Local hot rod guy confirmed this was a can of snake oil. Maybe to not lose the air cleaner stud down the carb?? I did put a drop of locktite on the stud and butterfly screws. Some thing to consider is what shape is the throttle return spring in? This one was really rusty and missing the inner safety spring. Yeah... I could see running WOT and busting the spring. Ill get the correct ones, but the Mr Gasket jobs were WAY too short. Took a diver Dan boot to push the pedal and no doubt, would break the cable. Didn't lose the jesus clip either!
I don't know, but think maybe if the engine was a CA engine it might have had smog. That would include an air pump. I don't think there will be any prob with detonation by blocking the EGR, because you don't have the air pump shooting air in the engine leaning it out. Nice job on the plate! There was no safety spring, cuz' Q-jets kind of spring shut w/o a spring. You don't want those lock washers on your carb hold-down bolts. If the bolts are right you don't need them, the original bolts ARE an odd length. Right...carb spacer deal is snake oil, toss it.
Yeah... one of these days Ill run the numbers by the exspurts here. As for now, it is what it is. I did re-use the old carb bolts, and the snake oil plate was about 3/8 thick. The bolts appeared to pull down 100% but tomorrow I may stick the divining rod in the holes and measure for correct length. The power steering mount does have an accommodation for an AIR pump, but that's gone as well as the carbon canister, so its gonna run au naturale'. Actually the thing ran pretty P-poor before... theres a small shaft spring on the secondary butterflies that holds the choke pull off into position and that was un hooked... just spinning on the shaft, choke B-flies screws were loose (!) causing binding, really poor wiring and a stretched shifter cable that wont pull the 400 in to low1. Should be interesting to see how it runs now. I did put a 185 T stat in there replacing the 160. I use the 160s on boat motors due to cold water cooling; this thing ran really poor until it was well warmed up. As in barely any throttle would have her sneezing and snorting. That and a header gasket leak almost made me feel embarrassed, but not quite... ws My little BONER (blue eyes) and BULLITT (as in Frank Bullitt) the wonder dog agree
The AIR (Air Injection Reactor) pump pushes air into the exhaust manifolds on deceleration to help with leaning out the enriched exhaust when the throttle snaps shut, not into the cylinders. They also force air into later models that have catalytic converters for the same reason, and get the cat up to operating temperature quicker. ---------- Post added at 06:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ---------- AIR is not EGR, two totally different systems.
I remember the first generation AIR injection sites were just piped into the manifold at the head port. A blast of cold air was supposed to crack the hydro carbon molecules. The EGR valve is closed (seated) except for high vacuum operation which to me is decelerating with the throttle closed. Isnt it supposed to redirect the hot exhaust gas into the intake side to actually heat the mixture for more complete burn? Theres a 4V manifold listed here from a 70 455 with no EGR. Back in Chicago that would've been a fail on a smog test, but up here we already have clean air. Seeing Chicago or any other generating sight for that matter the gray haze over the area was generally SO2 (sulphur dioxide) which they build the scrubbers for and then inject water into the furnace manifolds to break the NOx emissions. Then they buy emissions credits to bypass the amount allowed from areas where emissions are less of an issue. That became political. Wanna take the Bad Lad for a spin tomorrow and check it out, but it looks like rain/snow up here. Looks like some garage burn outs ... yeah, right! ws
Still don't know where to put this so heres some more factoids... Filled the radiator with A/F and no leaks. Took two table spoons of gas for a primer and touched the key for an instant start. She stumbled through two more until the carb was fully primed. Son of a gun runs like a champ with only the hint of a header leak on the center passenger side. Might have to double stack or make a thicker center gasket. Anyway a garage full of smoke was pretty impressive! Had to open the big door by feel; too much smoke! Next major job on the agenda id to pull the dash out part way... really need to repair/replace the bezel due to broken heater control studs and a bad wiper switch. I tried to look under there today with a visor mirror and flashlight and could barely ID one screw on the wiper switch. Heater control is a module that's merely hanging on wires. HOW THE HECK is the easiest way to pull the dash bezel? 325 lbs and a screwdriver aint gonna get it! So sitting in the driver seat feeling disgusted about the dash, I pulled the Johnny Racecar steering wheel cover off. ANOTHER WINNER!!!! I though the PO had glued the cover on but it was all gooey from paint. That's right. Uncured enamel. So I pulled the wheel only to find another winner. One of you guys tell me whats missing and how to remedy this: The horn button does work BTW. The steering wheel cleaned up really nicely with some Urethane paint thinner. I will gladly trade some one even on a black one if you need a perfect puke green one that's in remarkably good shape... see pics. ws Sorry about the blurry pic; I was doing a hand stand single handedly shooting this one... WHATS MISSING ?????????????? OPEN THIS LINK !! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqWD-qYgnhU&feature=youtu.be
that is an aftermarket wheel adapter. ---------- Post added at 12:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 PM ---------- looks like your missing some horn stufff
looks like the factory one to me....There is a contact kit for the horn that goes in where the cut wires are. You can get them. I believe they are still available.
That is the factory hub mount. The horn stuff you need is available from any Chevelle or Corvette parts carrier (NPD has it under two parts: the little spring loaded contact ( goes where your wires are showing) and the contactor. One of the parts ended in (-50a) if I recall...
Kinda thought so... ya know this forum has some critically outdated software... these posts just came in. Ive been un able to ID the exact part I need for the horn ring (?). I think the column bowl (??) is OEM; seems to work OK and fits well. The deeper I get into this car the more jazzed up it seems, so anything is likely! Still liking it tho... ws Did trade the brown wheel for a blue one. A member here needed the sandalwood wheel, and mine was painted black. It cleaned up really nice so I traded for the blue one, to paint anyway. Thanks J !! ws
