Docs cheap tricks.....sticky

Thanks Doc. You had me at "cheap"!:TU:

 

I'm no expert either, but something I read said that there's a butterfly (valve) in the heat riser (that was a '65 Riv I was readin' about). I guess, just make sure it's working right, for those of us who live in colder climates :laugh: (pretend that's a shivering smiley!)

 

Actually , on a nailhead, I dont recommend blocking the heat risers at all,,, the nails have a ''divorced'' intake that runs way cooler than the other engines already.... and as to the butterfly valve, I cut the short ,top half of the butterfly off , leaving the long half there,,, this insures that the butterfly wont get flipped over and block the exhaust ....but still works....intake temps on a nail head is in the neighborhood of 125 deg...after the engine is fully warmed up...on a nailhead you need enough heat to vaporize the gas so it will burn....

 

:gp: Thanx doc, sounds like a REALLY good tip, do you know would I have any luck trying to find a new one?

 

Some body makes a repop.... dont know who.... if they go bad I usually just cut out the butterfly and plug the holes....:Brow: :Brow: you still get heat up to the intake,, just not as much... but you still need some....

 

Doc,

Sorry if this has been asked before......do you recommend the intake manifold mods on a dual quad intake? If so, I presume both front and rear should be modified?

Thanks,

Chuck

 

i would say so, Chuck,,,,, take a look at the new eelco manifold,,,, they did it and I am thinking that they did it because that configuration works best....just be real carefull with your cutting,,, dont want to ruin a good manifold.....

 

Hi guys, I don't really know much to be honest.:grin: ou:

But a trick my Uncle showed me is a way to keep your car from vapor locking.

Add spring operated clothes pins to the metal fuel line to the carb. They act as a heat sink!

When he started putting those on my car's line I had a genuine "What the..?"
He told me it's an old rodder's trick.

Hope this helps. At the least; it's cheap!:TU:

 

Forgot to mention; use only WOOD clothes pins. You'd think it'd be obvious, but let's face it.....ou:

 

26. learn and do all mechanical, body,and maintaince your self ... saves a ton of money...

Other then racing and Cruising #26 is half the fun, good advice!!

 

Doc.... Could you please write a book on nailheads? I will order atleast 10 of them!

 

nope.....:laugh: :laugh:

 

well then im gonna be sneaky and save all your tips in a notepad and have my own doc book

 

Hey Doc,

When I was younger, an old timer around my house would build and paint some pretty sweet street racers in his garage. He would paint the underside of his hoods and most all of the engine compartment white and said it helped with the heat instead of being black.
Im thinking there is some truth in there. Ever heard of or tried it on a car with a beefed up motor?


Not implying that your an old timer or anything.

 

It would almost seem to be the opposite - the white surfaces would reflect heat back at the motor, rather than draw it away and absorb...I think anyway..???

 

Actually I did something similar to this back in the 60's ,,, could not tell any difference in the heat... but it did make it easier to see in the dim light at the strip.... but..... in a little while road dirt , oil drippings... snot, and other stuff made it look absolutely awfull under the car.... :laugh::laugh:
Far better to go with satin black.....

 

Thanks Doc!

 

I read somewhere that for every 10 lb of sprung weight, panels, seats, you, you gain about 1hp. 10lb of unsprung weight, wheels tires, brakes, rotors, ext, about 10hp. 10lb off driveline engine rotating mass, rear gears, driveshaft, trans gears, you get 15 hp. But for every 10lb off engine rotating weight, pistons, crank, flywheel, rods, valve train, pulleys, you get about 30 hp. This is a pretty sound concept, but you have to be careful when you get into the engine. a lite rotating assembly in the engine will be a DOG on the street without the rite gears and converter to move it. Otherwise there won't be enough flywheel energy to get you off the line unless you dump or ride the clutch every time.

 

I've never found INTERNAL lightweight engine rotating assembly to have anything but benefits in longevity. This is no 4 cylinder or small block Chevy. TORQUE rules and it would take a lot to make a 455 or nailhead a "dog" in that department!

On the other hand, if you were to put a drilled lightweight aluminum flywheel on a 455 it might take something away......

 

Ok dont laugh but what is the Difference in a Nailhead and Regular Engine