Do i need to resurface flywheel/pressure plate?

I have a pressure plate and flywheel for my 430,it has slight surface rust on it,does it need to be resurfaced or just lightly sanded to clean it up?,thanks...Darren

 

I'd clean the surface rust with a sander and then :3gears:

 

I would agree. The only time I recomend turning the flywheel, which will make it slightly weaker, is when it is badly glazed, rusted, grooved or pitted. For light rust I would sand it, and clean it really good to make sure there is no rust residue left that can pack into the friction material of the clutch. :3gears:

 

Thanks,that saves alot of time just oil it up good before i put it on huh! :laugh: Just kidding! Thanks for info :beer :3gears:

 

Make sure you get all the rust off or it will ruin the disc like Mike said.

Manufactures state to turn even a new flywheel or brake disc to true it up in case of any manufacturing tolerances.

 

What does dirt and rust do to disc,does it clog the surface and cause heat build up or slippage??,thanks for all info so far...Darren

 

Dirt, rust and even metal shavings after a resurface, if left on the flywheel, will pack into the friction disk. This will cause reduced life, decreased holding power, chatter, grooving and glazing of the flywheel and friction disk.

In other words, a whole lot of bad things can happen if you skip the few seconds it takes to clean the flywheel.

 

resurface flywheel

i make my living being a mechanic, i ALWAYS re-surface the flywheel on a clutch job. when in doubt about the thickness, always replace it.

 

It looks like its original thickness,never been surfaced?? no cracks or stress marks on surface.

 

:idea2: this should be made a sticky


:bglasses:

 

I strongly suggest you machine it. 30 bucks to machine it vs taking it apart again because of a chatter. You may be able to live with the chatter but the clutch will not.

 

They will tell you to re surface or replace them, but a DA sander cleans her up good. I have never turned one and I've never had a problem. All truck set ups, but the same deal other than the extra torque being put to the system by romping on it with large four wheel drive tires.

 

Find a shop that uses a surface grinder- it will clean it up like new, leave a true surface,proper cross hatch, and only removes a few thou.:beers2:
Robert

 

Sounds like you've done alot of them. How many miles do you get out of your clutch jobs?

 

Boy, it's been quite a few years since I was driving 4 speed trucks but the only time I ever had an issue is when I had a 454 flywheel behind my new 400!!!! That one sucked. Other than that with the trucks that I had back in the day I don't think I ever changed more than one clutch in a rig. Never had them more than a couple years after a clutch job either, but no problem with.... probably between 10,000 and 30,000 miles per year on my trucks back in those days and plenty of abuse to most of them.
I would bet they were all small block chevy that I did clutch jobs to. I don't remember ever doing one of my old beater ford trucks or the scout or land rover.
I think that when we took the 454 and auto out of the nova and put a 400 and 4 speed in it I used the flywheel from the truck that I took the motor out of. It probably only had about 10,000 miles on it though.
Helped with others for friends back in the day. Couldn't tell you how many miles they got on them, but I don't remember having that new flywheel smell with any of them. Those cars and trucks probably mostly met with pre mature deaths due to being cheap cars with young dumb kids out having a little too good of a time.

I do agree though that if it is only $30 or there abouts and they don't take much material off, it sure wouldn't hurt.
Back in the day when I did most of the clutch jobs that I've done, you didn't spend a buck that you didn't absolutely have to in order to keep it going. Didn't have the extra. Now, if a little extra might make something a little better or make it last better I will spend the extra. I don't even know if there is anyone close by that could do them back then. I think we could only buy an new one. Probably the same around here now, but I do get out and about more nowadays and could get it somewhere if I wanted to.

 

I want pics of that Poncho Wagon :TU:

 

Definitely have it turned if there are heat cracks (checks).

There is a chamfer machined around the outer diameter of the wear surface. If this is gone, you're not supposed to have it turned anymore. If it is there, the thickness is ok.

And , I've been told that the proper way to machine it is to use a centerless or Blanchard grinder. Don't know how true it is.