Thanks for the clarification! Need to lean my carb out as well. Not only does my car run rich I'm also spitting black crap (soot) out the tail pipes.
thanks guys. I will check my wires after school tomorrow. 11k huh, ok sounds good I will test them with the timing light first then the real deal ohm test. I will post my results. Btw the buick folks that have heard and seen my lark run say its got a "cam" in it so I'm sure that besides my fuel line has been cut very close to the carb and it had all new gaskets top to bottom... its been rebuilt.
Ok guys I got side tracked for today. I had been having a problem with a knocking sound for a while. well after having a friend start the lark while I listened to the engine I found that the sound was coming from the fuel pump. changed that out a little while ago. so tomorrow I will check the plugwires. I stopped by oriellys and the only spark plug wire tester I could find was http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIS0/20610.oap?keyword=ignition+tester&pt=N0665&ppt=C0103 But I think the one I should be looking for is the one that you can slide along the wire to test for voltage leaks.o No:
If you have a timing light then use that... Move it onto each of the plug wires, pull the trigger and watch for consistent flashes. Also run the engine in a DARK area and watch for spark arcs.
Dude I can't believe the knocking sound I had was my fuel pump. And now the oil pressure light doent take anywhere near as long to go off:beers2:
Well the wires tested ok with the timing light I still am on the hunt for the wrie tester that you slide along the wire to see if it is leaking voltage. thats what I need... I have notice a missfiring at start up when cold and sometimes when im crusin. thinkin its the wires:idea2:
what simptoms does the HEI ignition module have when it goes bad? will gettin an msd or performance module give me any better performance?
I have used this kit with good results: http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/8501/10002/-1?parentProductId=751096 There is most likely nothing wrong with your module, however it is worth testing it... More info here. http://forums.carcraft.com/70/8141905/general-car-craft-discussion/gm-hei-module/index.html
If you are running rich with a stock air filter, it means that the stock filter is restricting air flow. Why not go back to using an Edelbrock or other high flow filter?
Don't cheap out on wires whatever you do, spending 60 bucks is more than worth it for a custom fit set. I bought the universal $40 set and I hate the damn things. The boots rub against each other the wires wrinkle up when you pull them and they have about a mile of extra wire for each plugou: I learned my lesson in that area. I would also suggest changing that air cleaner, you never know it may just help. Besides the stock air cleaner is restrictive and I personally don't see the heat stove helping that much. The choke works just fine:beer
Well the cheap wires will have to last till after christmas as I have a lot of gifts to by. the new OMNI spark 9044 that I got when I asked for wires for a 75 century were like 25 bucks. the ones for the 72 Lark were for points even when I asked for electronic ignition wires. 6 of the wires tested between 8k and 11.5k the other two were18k and 24k. I'm thinking of taking those two that read hire back for ones with the correct reading. the heat stove does wonders for my engine and the choke works properly:beer
Fair enough!:grin: As for the air cleaner even for the sake of seing if it will help try finding a cheap open element to try out. If there is any improvement then you either have to jet down or get more air. I have been considering modifying my stock air cleaner. I think what exfarmer is trying to say though is just change the element not the whole air cleaner, you can keep everything the way it is but the filter will have improved flow. Just check your diapraghm in the air cleaner and make sure it is operating properly and opening after reaching the correct temps. Have you checked to make sure your choke opens fully as well?
