I called TA on Friday about having the SP3 intake machined for injectors too. Would be cool to do mpfi. Still unsure how to tackle the trigger wheel though
Two things on this. You can still go multi-port EFI without a trigger wheel by simply feeding the EFI ECU a tach signal off the tach port of the HEI cap or negative terminal of the ignition coil. If you have an MSD box or an ignition coil driver to run the ignition coil then you can run the tach signal straight off an HEI pickup coil (no modifications), or with a simple pull up circuit the points. This can get you a straight forward batch fire setup, which works pretty good. I ran my Buick this way from 2009 to 2011. It also gets you EFI'd, the full fuel control and if using an MSD box or ignition coil driver full ignition timing control too. After its up and running you can then figure out a trigger wheel setup and simply move your tach signal wire from the distributor to the trigger wheel sensor, set the ECU for the sensor type (if its changed, Hall or VR) and done, it'll fire up like normal but have a more precise timing signal (no chain or gear slop to account for). And remember, you can't go sequential with just a crank trigger, so its batch fire rather the tach signal is from the distributor or crankshaft, aka the crank trigger isn't critical to go EFI. I couldn't find a good side photo of a Buick 350's crank pulley bolted to the harmonic balancer to make any suggestions on attaching a trigger wheel.
All, Many of the other "Old Iron" are working their way over to EFI and COP designs. I have been following this thread since I am currently building the general same set up for my Cuda. I know its not a Buick or Buick thread, but its cool see how the theory works on our old muscle. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,99432.0.html Good read - V/r Charles
Here is a picture of my Tach In wire hooked to the HEI pickup coil. As I said, I ran this way from 2009 to 2011. Its a small plug pickup coil because I "tried" using a 7-pin module, which was a waste of time and effort. The 4-pin pickup coil will work the same.
Using the hei setup would be enough for me to use the holley efi to control timing? What would I need to do to lock out the hei? I have a v6 hei my friend converted to v8 using Chevy guts. Maybe I could try that thing out
The distributor in my photo is the original one to the 231 odd-fire V6 that came in my car that I swapped out the pickup coil and reluctor ring with a Chevy or Oldsmobile one (I think any other than Pontiac because Pontiac's rotate the opposite direction and could create rotor phasing issues). I stuck a 455 distributor gear on there (not needed for the 350) and drilled holes through the advance plate and put roll pins in there to lock out the distributor (as seen in the photo). I don't know enough about the Holley systems to know if they can directly drive an ignition coil (MegaSquirt can), but I do know if the Holley has timing control abilities it can control an MSD 6AL (or similar) box to run the coil and control timing. To control timing it should be: 1) HEI pickup coil to the ECU, ECU ignition timing signal wire out to the white(?) points wire on the MSD box, and the MSD box connected to the HEI coil. OR 2) If the ECU has a coil driver built in, HEI pickup coil to ECU, ECU ignition timing signal wire to the ground side of the ignition coil (HEI or otherwise) and +12v to the other ignition coil terminal. As a side note, a best practice when controlling ignition timing is to wire up the +12v to the coil to be powered on at the same time as the fuel pump relay. Coils will over heat and explode if the key is left on and have +12v going to them as most ECU's ground the signal wire when the engine is off. I have one relay that sends power to the fuel pump and ignition coil, so when the ECU turns the fuel pump off it turns off spark too. When going EFI there will be plenty of time you'll be sitting there for several minutes with the key ON and the engine OFF. Side side note, MSD boxes and GM 4-pin modules turn the +12v off at zero rpm by default.
Are these mallory dual sync distributors any good? Doesn't seem very popular.... http://m.ebay.com/itm/Mallory-77441...rm-Dual-Sync-Distributor-70-OFF-/111592124065 For the price it would almost be worth it for me to try. I'd still use coil near plug and use the distributor just for cam and crank sensor. Otherwise I'm really liking your Ford escort balancer idea. It makes so much sense to mount the trigger wheel around the pully instead of in front of or behind it. No pulley spacing issues, no crazy stand offs coming off the crank. Just simple and effective. Then I can use a GN cam sensor which drops in. Only issue I'll have is how to mount the crank sensor as ta does not make a small block timing cover with the sensor bolt provision in it. So I'd have to make something work somehow. But that dual sync is the absolute cheapest way to go. Then I can upgrade to a different set up later on after the bugs are worked out.
There is a guy named Terry who took a Olds 307 dist that was computer controlled, and cut it in half and welded it together with a lower part of a Buick 350 dist. This way he could swap a Buick 350 into his 80s Regal keeping the computer controlled Q jet and timing.
Ken also combined a Buick and olds dist: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?266627-CCC-Buick-350/page2
Just as a slight update the escort trigger wheel will in fact work on the buick 350 crank pulley with minimal machining. I purchased the holley hp mpfi kit today. I already have the gn cam sensor as well
Wow, yeah that looks like an even closer fit than the 455! Thank you for the pictures! Buick 455: I had the shop take just enough off the pulley to make it flat. I roll pinned it in, which worked great from 2011 to 2015, then during Drag Week all four roll pins disappeared, d'oh! The car simply died and wouldn't restart. I replaced them with cotter pins and it fired right up. I know some one that welded an escort wheel to his pulley's, and it eventually broke apart (shifting at 8,000+ rpm...) so I don't recommend welding it on.
Cotter pins sound like a good idea. I would imagine I'll just have to use stainless so i don't intearfear with the sensor. I've thought about maybe using rivets. After I get it machined I'll take it to work and see what I have to work with maybe I can bug the sheet metal guys to give me a hand.
These are just off the shelf parts store cotter pins and no issues with sensor picking them up as I have them installed there.
A slight update, I've got my coils mounted! I just have to pin the coil harness wires to the ECU, run fuel lines, finish my crank sensor bracket and line everything up. Sometimes I wish I just borrowed a carb to fire up the motor and break it in and worry about EFI later but seeing everything mounted up it sure looks to good! It will be fun when people ask what the heck kind of engine is it. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
DAMN!! That looks real good! For a moment I thought those were Pantera coils (super over kill). I'm jealous of the cam sensor and overall cleanliness
Thank you! These are IGN-1A coils which I believe are the same that are branded as Pantera coils, AEM coils and Holley EFI like what I have. Definitely overkill but they were $60 a piece when I bought them so I figured why not. I had also heard rumors that somehow stock LS coils were causing issues with the Holley ECU and frying it. Its safe to say everything I've done EFI wise is overkill at this point but I got swept up in the whole Holley craze and just ordered everything from them instead of using OEM parts to make it work which would have totally been fine. One of the guys who rents the shop next to mine suggested the coil location. I was going to put them on the fenders because I wasn't planning on welding anything to my TA valve covers. So we just made a bracket that bolts to the top 3 valve cover bolts and then the coils bolt to that. Works out awesome and hides a ton of wiring.
