I'm swapping my points and condensor for an hei. I've been studying this extensively before attempting it. I have a question about putting the new distributor in, it might be kinda dumb I don't know. When I put the hei distributor in, how do I figure out where the various terminals for the cylinders are on the new distributor? Will the new distributor automatically line up in the same orientation as the old one? Or does it even matter? If I get the engine at TDC for the #1 cylinder, when I put the new distributor in, isn't the position of the rotor where the #1 terminal is? As long as the firiing order is right, does it matter which terminal is #1? Part of me suspects it will only line up in a certain direction anyways. I ask because obviously the old cap and rotor are different from the new one and I don't think I can just eyeball it.
The number one terminal on a points cap is the one just clockwise of the vacuum advance canister. The #1 for the HEI is in approximately in the same location, just clockwise of the electrical plug ins, but it doesn't matter where #1 is as long as the firing order is followed clockwise around the cap, AND the rotor is positioned correctly to fire the #1 sparkplug at TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke. If the engine is currently running, just mark the distributor body where the #1 terminal is currently. Then crank the engine(with the distributor cap off) or turn it with a breaker bar until the firing end of the rotor points towards the #1 terminal position. Then remove the distributor. Orient the HEI rotor to point at the HEI #1 terminal and drop the distributor in. Orient the vacuum advance canister so that it points at the alternator, and make sure that the distributor drops all the way down. The bottom of the distributor shaft has a tab that engages the oil pump drive. If it doesn't drop all the way in, the oil pump will not turn, and there will be no oil pressure. If you have never done this before, it can be troublesome. I suggest you have a friend or someone familiar with doing this around in case you get into trouble. As you push the distributor home, the rotor will turn because of the helical nature of the gear. You have to account for this by orienting the rotor so that when it turns, it ends up being aligned where you want it.
As I understand it, the rotor has to be aligned at the #1 terminal and the timing mark has to be at 0, to make sure it's at tdc compression, not exhaust, right? On the current distributor, I mean. The car isn't running now, but as luck would have it the timing mark is at 0. I haven't taken the distributor cap off yet to see about the rotor.
When the timing mark is aligned with the 0 on the timing tab, the piston can be on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. It takes 2 complete turns of the crank to fire and exhaust any one cylinder. You have a 50% chance of being on the compression stroke, and if you believe in Murphy's Law, you have no chance of being right. :laugh: To be sure, take out the #1 spark plug. Cover the plug hole with your thumb. Have someone bump the starter over in small increments. When the piston comes up on the compression stroke, air will be forced out of the plug hole. When you feel it, look at the timing tab. You should see the mark coming around. Tap the starter or turn the engine with a breaker bar(clockwise from the front) until the mark is aligned with timing tab. Then install the distributor with the firing end of the rotor pointing at the #1 wire terminal.
Gotcha! That's pretty much what I thought. Thanks a bunch. And thanks for that power timing thread, that thing is a wealth of information.
larry gave you some good advice tom, especially the part about having someone with experience to help you on this swap. if your having trouble getting the distributor to go in all the way, shine a light down the distributor hole, get a long screwdriver and turn the oil pump shaft slightly, once you get the right turn on it the distributor should go down all the way. good luck.
Thanks for the advice about the oil pump shaft and everything else. After I got the old distributor off tonight I took a good look and I think I understand what to do to get the new one on. The distributor I took out, the gear has a wear mark all the way around in the middle. It's not worn down, it's just shinier around the middle, bare metal looking, whereas the rest of the gear is black. Is that something to worry about?
Alright, I got my distributor back from Dave Ray and I'm getting ready to put it back in this week. Before I put it back in, should I grease or lube the distributor gear at all?
You shouldn't need to. If you want, you can pour some oil on the gear, it won't hurt to do that. No grease. Good to see Dave is doing distributors. I thought he stopped.
this is the hillbilly (bubba) way. mark the point of rotor on the manifold or some place with tape. then plop the new one in with rotor pointing the same place. if it does not go all the way the first time bump the starter and it will drop down in. done this several times. i know it is not by the book. but it works for me. jmho jim
I tested it today and it dropped right in. I just turned the pump shaft with a screw driver and it popped right in. I looks good too.
