Distributor lock out

Who's running a distributor that's locked out and what are the pros and cons of both.

I'm told all the top runners in all classes run locked out.

 

I run a locked out distributor. The pros are that your timing is what it is and you don't worry about losing a weight or spring while you're pounding the car. The only con is that you'll probably need a timing computer that retards the timing while starting the car and possibly also for high rpm retard as well. The MSD 7AL3 in my car has both features built in to it, but any MSD ignition has provisions that allow you to plug in a timing computer. I run my car around 32-33 degrees total and at start-up I've got it retarding down to 18 degrees. As soon as it's running it goes right back to the total setting. I don't use the high end retard, but most guys who do, use around 36 degrees total with 4 degrees of retard after 5000 rpm or so. Hope this helps you out.

 

Us circle track guys have been doing this for a while,to get it started without a lot of dough just hit the start button before you turn on the ignition,in a stock type column just wire up a seperate starter button,spin it over then turn on the key.:grin:

 

Thanks Doug,

You're one the top runners I was talking about thanks for the feed back.
Most of the new digital box already come with the start retard feature already built in.I'm looking at one with an ajustible retard.
I think with the standard set up along with a box that retards 20 degrees at start up is the root of my hard starting problems.

A plus is that there's less chance of the spark jumping around and rock solid timing marks.

My next question, if this is so much better from a performance stand point way would we run timing any other way.
could it be gas mileage,or these new ignition boxes weren't available?

 

Just a quick add-on to what rico08 posted: my experiences in trying what he mentioned is that it does work better than flipping the ignition on before cranking it, BUT the motor often suddenly kicks the starter back right at the instant you flick the ignition while cranking. I guess it's the combination of a LOT of compression and the locked out timing. It's easier to have the computer automatically set the timing back when the motor's cranking.

 

On my last motor, I ran locked advance (33) with 4 deg retard at 5K and the MSD Digital 6. It's got a 20 deg retard on starting and I don't know if you have to hold the key on for a second but I would quite often get a nasty kickback even with only 10.6 comp.
Gotta be hard on the motor (maybe that's why my block broke?)
Like hittin the rod with a sledge hammer!

Anyway the new 12-1 motor has the quickest curve I could make (all in at 1400).....very easy starting. But I don't really like it cuz when the rpms go below 1400 the advance starts to go away then it slows down and loses some more till it's dead. With locked I would run steady and start it in the pits just by reaching in.
I guess there are always compromises to be made.

Bruce