Disc conversion in process

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by lowflyer, Apr 20, 2007.

  1. lowflyer

    lowflyer Well-Known Member

    So the weather is finally well enough that I can start on some projects; and the first on the list is the disc brake conversion. I went ahead and opted for the drop spindle package.

    So some of the problems that I have run into:

    - Kit was shipped without the booster brackets or a clevis. Had to wait...

    - Porportioning valve had to moved, which required fabricating brake lines to connect with old lines. Oh, the fun of making flares in tight spaces...

    - Had to buy new 15" rims to clear the front brakes. This one isn't really a problem, but a wonderful excuse to buy bigger rims and tires....just don't tell the wife.

    - Called 3 alignment shops in town, and even before they looked at the car, they all said "...yeah we're going to have to replace this that and the other, it'll cost at least $500...." I had to tell them all to go pound sand...Its an all new front end, but no one would listen. One punk even told me over the phone that ALL personal installs are done wrong and that it all had to be redone.

    - The biggest headache has been the fabbing of the rear brake line. 1/4" tubing with a 9/16 fitting on one side. When I tell the parts kids that I need a 9/16 fitting, they all look at me like I've got two heads. The auto(brainless)zone told me that the fitting I was holding in my hand did not exist and it must be metric. The advance(reverse)auto guy didn't know the progression of standard sizes. "What is a 1/4" line? Is that like 9mm or 10mm? I don't think we have anything like that." Had to go across town to the NAPA, and those guys had never seen anything like that before. They tell me that I must have some kind of hacked together lines. I told them thats the way they came from the factory, and its an original unmolested car. None of them have worked on anything older than an '80s car. So no help there. Ended up at a hydraulic shop and bought a no flare high pressure union fitting for $5.00 to connect the old lines to the new ones.

    So, all I have to get done today is to bleed the system, leak check and find a competant alignment shop to take the car to. Here are some progress pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. gsxbuildernut

    gsxbuildernut Well-Known Member

    Nice car, I have done the same conversion but had no issue with the rear line like you did. I am lucky enough to have a shop here that has three GS cars behind it, two are parts cars and the third is being built. They were happy to align my car even though I did all the parts replacement. I did have to do a burn out when I left though, small price to pay!! Do yourself a favor and loosen your connections and retighten them a couple times to set the unions, they always seem to leak after just one tightening. Good luck!!

    Steve :TU:
     
  3. lowflyer

    lowflyer Well-Known Member

    So the headache continues...

    While plumbing and bleeding, I couldn't get the front caliper/hose connection to stop leaking. The hose was on the right way. I even changed out the brass washers on the banjo bolt. I took everything apart, and lo and behold, the end of the brake hose is too big for the banjo bolt. There is so much slop between the bolt and hose end that there is no way that it is going to contain any pressure or fluid. I need either a larger banjo bolt, or a smaller end on the brake hose. I called the kit supplier and they tell me that they sent me the wrong hoses. So now the project is back on hold until next week.

    First the booster brackets, then the whole rear brake line issue, and now the hoses....I am really getting frustrated with this.... Sorry I had to vent.

    So to make myself feel better, I went ahead and bolted up the new wheels and tires to see how the front end drop will look. It sits A LOT lower than my '66 with the same drop spindles...It had new front springs put in 3 years ago... What do you think?

    Before:

    [​IMG]

    Now:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    the other car w/ same spindles:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Looks great, you gotta love them simple bolt on kits eh...
     
  5. 72 pet chicken

    72 pet chicken i dont wanna be a pirate!

    very nice car!!! :TU:

    excuse me if i missed it somewhere but, what kit did you get, and where did you get it from? very nice work! how much drop did the spindle get you?

    pete
     
  6. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    You don't mean a compression fitting do you? those are not intended for steel line, or high pressure. they are for copper tubeing. in fact, they are not legal for brake lines here in new york state. I would remove it immediatly and find the proper flares. it will fail. What you need is simple. first, you won't be able to use the larger 9/16" fitting. you'll have to cut the line, re-flare it with the 7/16"size. Then, buy a section of 1/4" line cut it and use slide the 9/16" over that line and put that in the valve for a semi stock look. then cut to the length needed and flare it properly. compression fittings are no good for brakes...


    [QUOTE=lowflyer;977336
    - The biggest headache has been the fabbing of the rear brake line. 1/4" tubing with a 9/16 fitting on one side. When I tell the parts kids that I need a 9/16 fitting, they all look at me like I've got two heads. The auto(brainless)zone told me that the fitting I was holding in my hand did not exist and it must be metric. The advance(reverse)auto guy didn't know the progression of standard sizes. "What is a 1/4" line? Is that like 9mm or 10mm? I don't think we have anything like that." Had to go across town to the NAPA, and those guys had never seen anything like that before. They tell me that I must have some kind of hacked together lines. I told them thats the way they came from the factory, and its an original unmolested car. None of them have worked on anything older than an '80s car. So no help there. Ended up at a hydraulic shop and bought a no flare high pressure union fitting for $5.00 to connect the old lines to the new ones.
     
  7. lowflyer

    lowflyer Well-Known Member

    Actually, I got a high pressure no-flare union fitting from an industrial hydraulic shop. It is made to hold over 5000lbs of fluid pressure on construction equipment. It is not the slip-on connector for brass tubing. I thought about re-flaring the end and using 7/16" ends, but this way I don't have to mess with trying to double flare lines in a confined space. If it leaks, I'll have to go that route.

    The kit that I bought was a Master Power Brakes kit through Performance Suspension out of AZ. As far as the amount of drop, I think it is about 2" overall. We'll see how the front end settles after the alignment.

    Thanks for the comments.
     
  8. Topless64-455

    Topless64-455 Well-Known Member

    Here is a picture of the lines from inline. They didnt match either. I like the straight lines you have.
     

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  9. Fl Buick

    Fl Buick 72 350 4 gear

    17 years in the autobody business, there are NO SPLICES IN BRAKE LINES EVER , NEVER EVER, NOT DONE, some of the words I`ve heard: WHATS IT GOING TO HURT, MY DAD`S NEIGHBOR DID THAT ALL THE TIME AND HE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. IT DOESENT LEAK(RIGHT NOW IS OK HOW ABOUT A PANIC STOP), DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH IT COST TO DO IT RIGHT? AND ON AND on and on.
    but hey thats just me talking here.
     

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